Versace should be the Mount Olympus of power girls who live in loud luxury with a classic touch. But the fall 2024 collection was so packed with ideas and products (not all of them looking completely rich) that the brand's message was confusing.
Donatella Versace said she was thinking of a rebel with a kind heart, as evidenced by genderless red and black plaid punk rock outerwear and spiky hairstyles, dirty mohair sweaters, tight sheer shirts, leather pants and multitudes of chain belts, all a bit reminiscent of Barry Keoghan's “playfully rebellious” personal style.
Powerful tailoring was a top priority, continuing the path the designer began a year ago at her spectacular pre-Oscars show in Los Angeles. There were many iterations—too many, perhaps—including military-inspired maxi coats, bouclé ladies' suits, elegant hourglasses, and casual equestrian moments.
He also brought back the long button-front jackets that Versace made for Prince, worn over tapered pants. Those looks could have inspired an entire collection. “He knew the culture,” he said of his late friend, calling him a shy genius. “The music came from his soul.”
However, it was very refreshing to see the feminine jacket come down to Earth, paired with comfortable stirrup tights, like the ones Donatella herself wore in the preview. For when you want a shield with padded shoulders, but also take care of yourself a little. That was the beginning of something simple, modern and worth spending a little more time on.
The LA collection set the benchmark for the brand under its current corporate ownership, which is about to transition as Tapestry takes over parent company Capri. And some of those ideas stuck, including sleek, sophisticated corset minidresses with draped spiral skirts, in leather or crystal mesh. But overall, the collection needed more elevation and focus.
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