As students in at least eight U.S. states return to school this week, one item won't be in their backpacks: Mobile phones, thanks to new laws banning them. New York City Mayor Eric Adams recently admitted that the Big Apple was not quite ready for this new practice. This leads us to reflect on life without our fifth appendage in many quarters. As New York Fashion Week begins, it is easy to imagine how a ban on mobile phones (and the social media that goes with it) would derail the fashion industry and render today's fashion shows meaningless.
So it was refreshing to see a show that harkened back to fashion’s roots: media and fashion professionals in a stately but not overly decorated room watching the debut of a new collection to report on the season’s trends, influence purchasing decisions and generally stay on top of the industry as professionals.
Proenza Schouler delivered on that Wednesday morning with its spring 2025 show, while its naturally lit staging (right down to the location in an 1894 New York Mercantile Exchange building) was pared back; for designers Jack McCollough and Lázaro Hernández, the collection was the opposite of pared back.
“For the last three seasons we've been paring down and stripping things away – last season it was all down to a shirt and a pair of trousers – so this time it was about rebuilding and incorporating old and new codes,” McCullough told reporters backstage. Hernandez added: “It was about re-appropriating them, making them ours again in that sense.”
To this end, highly conceptualized artisanal treatments were used, such as abstract and painterly garment prints, air-filled organza tubes as extreme fringes, fabrics adorned with feathers and stripes, attributed to Barnett Newman.
The collection had a graphic, maritime feel thanks to stripes on knit dresses that morphed into fringe, crisp striped skirts, and black and navy combined with white on buttoned, sailor-style trousers and jackets that triumphed over function in favor of design interest.
The often asymmetrical flaps on the backs of the arms and shoulders created square edges and demonstrated the collection's sail-like shape-inspired element. According to McCollough, a cape-effect blouse was a rectangle with four arm holes that encircled the body.
The concept of button detailing was evident in the use of straps, buttonholes and buckles that served more to create interest than operational purposes of the garment. Hernandez referred to it as a “stream of consciousness” design. One particular trench coat-inspired garment piqued the interest of several guests. The collection also exhibited a balance between commercial appeal and intriguing design.
Overall, there was a wealth of dresses that the designers said were a reaction to last season's focus on suits. Pleated, Grecian-inspired dresses, with open sides and belts that created waistlines that showed off the dress, were appealing for the end of the show, while feathered pieces paired with glitchy prints offered another option for evening.
According to Hernandez, accessories remain a major focus for the brand. An oversized, sheer mesh clutch called Tate was worn with another style of bag inside. An update on a new sneaker style worn with dresses reinforced the comfortable footwear ethos. With oversized lugged soles juxtaposed with delicate kitten heels, adorable marabou embellishments rounded out the walking-friendly footwear options.
Starting the week two days ahead of the official schedule was driven by the duo's desire to utilize the space that could only seat 140 guests, thus requiring two shows and avoiding disrupting the other designers' shows — a refreshing consideration.
The chosen time slot was also an unusual decision. “It's the first time in 12 years that we've shown in the morning,” McCullough said. It also contributed to the “back to school fashion” vibe.
Hernandez said it was also a way to capture the natural beauty of the Gilded Age building. “The space has no track lighting and the light is incredible at 10:30 in the morning. So we did it at this time and day, and we knew the weather would be amazing.”
Another ode to the glorious 1900s, Uptown took place in a pair of Upper East Side mansions, where two prominent Italian designers showcased their latest menswear offerings. In a unique pairing, Giorgio Armani X Kith presented their collaboration, marking the first time the legendary Italian designer has partnered with another menswear brand. A smart move considering the brand’s current fascination with Gen Z and the influence of the avant-garde streetwear brand founded by Ronnie Fieg.
The collection, displayed on three floors at Townhouse in East 80He and dressed in an Armani Casa suit, he broke down the collection into four archetypes of men: the artist, the entertainer, the traveller and the businessman, embodied in the new collection's campaign by Martin Scorsese, Lakeith Stanfield, Pierce Brosnan and Fieg himself. Scorsese, the quintessential New Yorker, kicks off the first campaign and subsequent talents will launch campaigns in London, Milan and Shanghai in the coming weeks.
Unsurprisingly, the collaboration features the best of both worlds: Armani’s impeccable tailoring and luxurious fabrics (how about a seven-ply cashmere hoodie?) or streetwear staples like sweaters, velour tracksuits and bucket bags crafted from the most luxurious fabrics.
Further north, Zegna opened the New York section of its experimental 'Ville Zegna' space, in homage to its founder Ermenegildo. 'The Legend of Il Conte' highlights the then Italian textile manufacturer's first trip to New York in 1938.
The neo-Renaissance mansion on Carnegie Hill, bathed in original memorabilia on loan from the family villa, was designed to take visitors – including the press, opinion leaders and VIP clientele – on a journey to discover Zegna’s roots. After viewing the objects, visitors enter a darkened room to watch a sensory-overwhelming video showcasing Zegna’s ecological origins, its impact on the mountainous “Oasi Zegna” region and its commitment to building the region’s infrastructure.
Also on display was the brand’s spring/summer 2025 collection, which was unveiled earlier this year. The project, which will visit additional cities to be announced soon, came about in the wake of the brand’s book launch earlier this year at Salone Mobile.
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