Product quality and longevity: the strategic response “Made in France”

Fifteen years after French manufacturing became a fixture of public debate, the MIF Expo trade fair, held in Paris from November 6 to 9, once again showcases the richness of the country's clothing and footwear. The show opens a day after the inauguration of a Shein boutique at the BHV, and at a time when Made in France players seem less protected from market volatility.

“The Made in France market, which until then had been saved, is now under attack,” explains Luc Lesénécal, general director of the Norman brand Saint James, pointing out the direct effects of the political and economic instability in France. “I have plans to expand our workshops that have been put on hold due to lack of clarity and political decisions,” says the Norman executive.

From the Cévennes, Julien Tuffery believes that local production suffers because more is said about the negative aspects than the positive ones. “Customers who only buy Made in France represent 2% of the population. I think this percentage is growing, but it is being suffocated by the incredible growth of people who buy poor quality clothing,” laments the director of the jeans brand Atelier Tuffery.

For Patrick Mainguené, director of the Ector footwear brand, based in Ardèche and owned by the Chamatex group, the issue goes beyond ultra-fast fashion. “In September I saw that sneakers were sold in a supermarket for 4.99 euros,” he says. “That is the price of our soles. Even if we sourced from Asia, we would not be able to sell at that price, taking into account transportation, shelf storage, storage… You can no longer fight over price when we are faced with these types of prices, because explaining that a pair costs 120 euros falls on deaf ears for a large proportion of consumers.”

“It's time to ask ourselves the real question: do we want to be a nation of passive consumers or a nation of responsible producers?” asks the founder of the MIF Expo, Fabienne Delahaye, in a press release, recalling the “industrial sovereignty” vote defended by the Elysée in 2020.

Forget price, stand for longevity

At the head of a century-old company with 200 employees and 70 million euros in turnover, Luc Lesénécal is alarmed by the accumulation of low-quality products, the standardization of styles and the short useful life of items, which are discarded after a year. “We will never be competitive on price,” he says. “Some people think they can get by by halving prices, when to make a difference they would have to be reduced tenfold. The strength of Made in France lies in quality and spreading the cost over years of use, while fast fashion does not last more than two washes.”

Julien Tuffery, whose family business of 42 employees now generates €5.2 million in turnover, agrees: “This battle for volume and low prices is lost, probably forever. But I also believe that it is this mediocrity that means our battle will be won. The bigger and uglier this big machine gets, the more room it leaves for alternative paths.”

For Patrick Mainguené, fewer and fewer clients focus on origin than in previous years. “Made in France comes into play as a purchase argument, but it is not the main one,” says the footwear manufacturer who, after producing for large brands, launched its own in 2017, manufacturing 8,000 sneakers a year. “We see it clearly at the MIF Expo: what makes people stop is, above all, aesthetics and comfort. All of us, when we arrive at a store, first look at the products we like. There is also a notion of quality associated with French manufacturing. And this is a point where we must not disappoint, if we want to build loyalty.”

Materials and manufacturers

Producing in France soon faces the limited choice of local materials. Beyond cotton, Atelier Tuffery uses 30% wool, as well as linen and local hemp. “We pay very high prices for materials that we could find for a quarter of the price elsewhere. But we have no choice if we want to build a strong supply chain,” explains Julien Tuffery. “And I hope that this economic moment, painful for some, does not put an end to a decade of efforts.”

Saint James, which claims to be the latest premium brand that produces 70% in France (the rest comes from Portugal), is careful not to stray away from natural materials such as wool and cotton. “In the spring of 2026, we will have our first Breton linen shirt,” reveals its CEO, proud to point out that the yarn will come from “French Filature”, based in Normandy.

“In the footwear sector, the number of manufacturers decreases year after year,” highlights the director of Ector. “This is related to price differences across Europe, which can vary up to three times, and that considerably disrupts the market. Many French designers want to produce in France, but end up turning to Spain and Portugal, which have well-equipped factories, while in France we have aging and even obsolete equipment.”

Controlled growth

The members of the sector interviewed agree on one point: following the Made in France trend too much runs the risk of burning your fingers. “We always have our foot on the brakes and reject high-volume opportunities,” explains Julien Tuffery. “My real professional success will be in 30 years, when I pass the reins. But doing things well, in volume, at low prices, selling everywhere, complying with CSR, all that with rapid growth, is an equation that I cannot solve, and I think it is unsolvable.”

Even with a history dating back to 1889, Saint James refuses to grow too much, too fast, although it sees 60% growth in the last twelve years. “We limit our growth to 5% per year, because our production facilities have to keep up to date,” says its general director, who has been investing for three years in the modernization of a hundred knitting machines. “And we need to maintain a balance between export markets, because you never know when a shock like Brexit or a US tariff might hit.”

Although French fashion shines throughout the world through its maisons, the products of its local manufacturers do not enjoy the same aura among foreign customers and distributors. “I just returned from Japan and for them it doesn't matter if it's Made in France or Italy. It gives them a good dose of humility,” smiles Julien Tuffery. Patrick Mainguené moderates it: “Abroad, Made in France is attractive if it conveys heritage, as is the case with our Breton shirts and our sailor sweaters.”

Training and public procurement

The challenges of local production are intrinsically linked to those of skills, which have become scarcer since the offshoring of the 2000s. From Atelier Tuffery to Saint James via Ector, this problem is addressed through in-house training. In Saint James, it takes between 18 and 24 months to train someone for a position, while Atelier Tuffery is committed to the versatility of its employees and a welcoming production environment, firmly breaking with the image of the factories of yesteryear.

“People who leave training have basic knowledge that saves us time, but what is decisive is above all their desire to do the job,” explains Patrick Mainguené. “Students spend little time in the workshop and have a limited view of the industrial aspect. That's why we have to take the time to train them internally. Without that, there is no French manufacturing.”

Like training, public procurement is also inseparable from the debate on Made in France. “In the United States, 50% of contracts are reserved for American manufacturers. That is why we need our public procurement to favor Made in France,” says Luc Lesénécal, who generates 5% of the company's income in the armed forces. “Beyond supporting relocation, we should start by promoting those who, like us, have never relocated.”