PFW Thursday Night: Rick Owens and Schiaparelli

Thursday culminated in two shows by masters of the show: Rick Owens and Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, one outdoors under a threatening sky and the other in a dark nightclub.

Rick Owens

Were these costumes for a piece of performance art at Burning Man, or an actual collection intended to be worn in real life?

More likely the former, the clothes were so theatrical, the proportions so challenging. Clothing designed to attract attention from a distance, like a character on a set.

Once again, the great Rick Owens starred in his parade on the esplanade of the Palace of Tokyo. Its remarkable wild cast of characters marching in front of the giant 1930s murals of sea gods and nymphs. Full marks to casting agent Angus Munro for the beautiful and proud group of non-professional models, including the tallest woman ever seen on a fashion catwalk.

After a day of heavy rain, the weather gods began to shine even as the audience sat in icy silence. Owens, famous for inventing Gothic minimalism, became an expressionist in middle age. Its all-black opening features around twenty ladies with black robes draped over their shoulders; layers and layers of giant tulle and dozens of zippers, eyelets and fetish rings. Women anchored by enormous heeled methacrylate boots, wrapped in matching fabrics. Transforming into survival chic punk style with crumpled leather shirts and bras; Worn by girls with shaved heads topped with mesh halos.

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Most models wore matching worn leather gauntlets, in gold or black. Even if Rick broke the monochrome with capes and animal-print dresses, before returning to a more funereal black.

If it seemed like the cast were members of a penitential pilgrimage, the clothes and mood were just as somber. It all made for a dramatic extravaganza performed by a cast Rick called “An Army of Love.” Backed by a bold soundtrack, Wagner's Tristan und Isolde blares from huge speakers. Meanwhile, half a dozen priestly figures dressed in black robes, attached at the back to the walls of the Palace, stood on the roof dropping white rose petals on the scene during the show.

However, the collection itself seemed too familiar. As a designer, if not a showman, Owens seems trapped in a cycle, repeating himself even as he has become a great businessman.

Schiaparelli: vintage of the future

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Schiaparelli designer Daniel Roseberry called this collection Future Vintage, but it also looked pretty good for today.

Its key component was Elsa Schiaparelli's favorite fabric T-shirt, which Daniel employed in a much tighter silhouette than previously seen in his designs for the house. Nothing bad either.

A show that opened with excellent cotton piqué bodysuits cut into sexy cocktails centered on the bodice. Before Kendall Jenner appeared in a white sleeveless jumpsuit over some super distressed jeans, with E's and S's embroidered on the back pockets. Steamy.

Daniel's form-fitting shirt dresses were quite sensational, as were her sculpted denim cocktails constructed with bustiers. All bravely finished off with signature nipple earrings, or prong or pearl versions; anatomical gilt brass cuffs; fetish rings; safety pins; or heeled sandals with a gold measuring tape. In addition, triangular prism-shaped bags looked fantastic, complemented by exclusive locks or costume jewelry buttons.

One of Roseberry's greatest achievements is that Schiaparelli has created a large accessories business with an instantly recognizable DNA and style. Not many couturiers can say that.

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Using Elsa's beloved knitwear, she created a fantastic red ribbed sweater and a matching pencil skirt finished with anatomical charms; or remarkable viscose cocktails in turquoise or canary yellow finished with tonal hand-applied leather stripes.

In a word, very inventive fashion from a designer who continues to break new ground. A silent revolutionary who has full control of his workshop. Able to suddenly shift gears and stun in a perfectly draped mesh knit dress that models took enormous pride in wearing.

Staged inside a performance space on Place Vendome before just 300 people, this was a great show. Outside, almost six times that number cheered the guests, feeling, rightly, that with Daniel Roseberry Schiaparelli he continues to make fashion history.