Paul Smith did not return to Florence with a collection presentation after 31 years for no reason. His spring men's collection not only referenced the 1960s Italian cafes in London's Soho, where he spent more than one “naughty” night in the wee hours of the morning, but Italian craftsmanship was also on full display in the use of gorgeous, locally sourced fabrics and the ease of deconstructed silhouettes inspired by tailoring.
He combined his gift for soft formal dressing with the workwear inflections that continue to dominate men's fashion at Pitti Uomo, where he staged his presentation: the Paul Cafè set up within the gilded rooms and lush garden of Villa Favard. As a guest of the summer trade show, Smith had in mind the artsy types, who went to school in their lightly knotted souvenir-patterned ties under work jackets, carrot-colored jeans with tone-on-tone floral motifs, silky pajama shirts and pleated, oversized tailored pants. in houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics.
Smith also arranged a collaboration with Lee, the historic denim brand.
