Paris wakes up with AMI and its timeless chic fashion

AMI Paris closed the third day of men's shows with a sober and elegant collection. The star-studded line-up, which included Juliette Binoche, Isabelle Adjani and Vincent Cassel, was as alluring as the blockbuster booth, featuring actresses Diane Kruger, Lou Doillon and Laetitia Casta. For the autumn-winter 2024/25 season, designer Alexandre Mattiussi returned to his basics, affirming his sartorial side more than ever, delivering his ideal and timeless men's wardrobe.

The collection was revealed in the light of dawn, when the City of Light is still emerging from its slumber in the early hours of the morning. It is a suspended moment, when the partygoers return home, while the first workers head to work, walking at the fast pace so typical of Parisians. When a bell rings in the distance and the traffic begins to rustle, the models hit the sidewalk with a firm and striking step, in their thick, lugged-soled shoes for men or their high-heeled ankle boots with wide straps for women.

They stepped out into the darkness from the porch of a beautiful stone mansion, its windows still lighted. We're a long way from the days when the brand celebrated romantic, bohemian Paris, with its tin roofs and streetlights… Everything seemed a little more austere. Starting with the predominantly dark palette of black, brown and gray, radically different from the previous collection. Beautiful midnight blue ensembles also appeared in the collection.

Alexandre Mattiussi returned to true tailoring with a plethora of jackets, suits and ensembles. The gabardine and thick wool coats fell impeccably. The pleated pants were sublime. The jackets abandoned the oversized look of recent seasons in favor of more elegant proportions, in fitted models or blazers. All the pieces were beautifully cut. The designer even took the liberty of introducing a new shorter length for the pants.

For women, he recovered the culotte skirt, available as a suit and also worn by men. For a more chic look, the coats and jackets were adorned with gold buttons. But when the designer strayed a little from this classic universe, for example with lined sweaters or covering the sleeves of a trench coat with faux fur, the result was less convincing.

A subtly glamorous touch entered the collection with some beaded tops and this gold lamé dress that sparkled under a top. But it was with a simple and classic coat tied at the waist with a wide belt, with rounded, slightly dropped and enveloping shoulders, that Alexandre Mattiussi chose to close his show. Laetitia Casta was wearing it, with her hair down and her hands in her pockets. One last turn around the track and she closed the heavy wooden front door of the house behind her.