Fictional Tribes on Undercover this season, where Jun Takahashi reminded his audience that there are few more inventive designers working in menswear today.
Nomadic, even disheveled, his cast walked around in rumpled linen suits, pants cut to mid-calf and sleeves elongated. Little by little he is fading; and tinted with images of Renaissance palaces or medieval forts.
While treated cotton cabins and peacoats came in abstract expressionist pops of mud green, sunset red and eggshell blue. Paired with tapered pants and leggings made with zippers down the front of the leg, left open to expose the knees.
“I was imagining fictional tribes, from Africa to Asia,” explained Undercover founder Takahashi, dressed in a multi-pinned fedora.
By the end, his creatures were almost prehistoric, the work of Takahasi's accelerated subconscious.
Many of his actors also wear safari hats or veils around their eyes, in a gentle sadomasochistic statement.
“Effortless, lightness and comfort-fullness. I wanted to integrate some forms of women’s taste,” Jun explained through his translator. Takahasi understands English quite well, but she likes to respond in Japanese.
All the action backed by a great video from the rock trio Glass Bead, whose sounds mix African percussion and Middle Eastern rhythms. The trio, dressed in metallic silk and sequins, shines on a giant screen that served as a backdrop for this show at an art center in the 5th arrondissement. The clothes were reflected in the show's final look.
When asked how he discovered the band, Jun deadpanned and laughed: “I found Glass Bead on YouTube!”
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