There is a certain idea of Paris, from a city dedicated to art, excellence and the elegant liberation of women, which was the concept that supported the last epic show of Stéphane Rolland this season in the French capital.
Titled “Argument”, the collection imagined as a meeting between the dancer Ida Rubinstein and the composer Maurice Ravel. The result was a Hispanic/Arab meeting of cubic forms, baroque details and sensual style.
Rolland haute couture with great taste, never more than this season, where his show was presented within the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, which despite his name is located on the most important luxury avenue of Luxury Avenue Montaigne. Dior headquarters avenue, Marlene Dietrich's apartment and El Dorado Hôtel Plaza Athenée. And this theater is where Stravinsky first made “The Rite of Spring”, and where Karl Lagerfeld debuted the first Fendi show “Haute Fourure.”
Rolland made the Art Deco space of his, inviting director Zahia Ziouani and the Divertimento Orchester to come and play the synchronous bolero of Ravel. Although the muse of the collection was Rubinstein. Born in a rich family, Ida escaped from Russia to become a star dancer in Les Ballet Russes, and an icon of Belle Epoque. Although in 1938, he had to flee his beloved Paris for London due to anti -Semitism and the imminent war.
The legendary sensuality and the first legatic positions were seen in some majestic clothes. From the cubic blazers combined with pencil skirts or jersey dresses finished with huge regal necklaces, to Stéphane's single shoulder cocktails with huge notch sleeves of the leg-u leg '' all trimmed and finished with glass broches, buckles, pipes and mini skulls.
For the night, Rolland went to gang search engines with a series of robe and sinful red crepe dresses in sculptural forms worthy of Brâncuşi.
Rolland remains an independent designer devoid of a deep pocket investor, and his ability to use limited resources for great powerful images is also part of a rich artistic tradition of Paris. Like today, when he projected huge images of musical metronitics on stage curtains in a man -worthy opening. Later, when the models began to chew on the famous stage, he planned black and white videos of the 1930s of sewing machines and spindles as a backdrop.
The mood rises to a crescendo with Ravel's “bowling”, since the scarce models appeared in long Gazar skirts surpassed by the bolero jackets embroidered in gold and glass. Bringing a great applause roar when Rolland made the reverence, recognized with an ovation standing for respecting the duty of the artists in Paris. And in terms of fashion, continuing a tradition that has lasted from King Sun.
Ashi Studio: Subtle Salon Style
Modifiers can come from the entire planet, but once they are established in Paris, the mysteries of the city almost inevitably feed their designs, as happened in a rare and refined haute couture show of Ashi Studio in a steam on Tuesday night.
This season, Ashi's inspiration born in Saudi came from the flea markets in Paris, although the true source was an evocative invocation of Paris Couture.
Sometimes, the program felt a bit like a fashion tutorial, where Ashi was determined to show that his workshop was able to match any of the great houses in Paris. A tutorial that passed with honors, from the remarkable silver sequin dress on which small and embroidered birds flew, to the two playful monkeys climbing by a leather corset.
There were echoes from other Couturiers, Galliano, McQueen and Gaultier, but all in the term of Ashi. Nothing was copied in this program. Neither the excellent White Bustier dress with a long train, nor the magnificent lace dress of Restauration Moll Ecru with tulip sleeves
Ashi Beige coat sprouting micro feathers was also excellent. And complete marks for an impressive corset dress trimmed with a train decorated with curly stays.
Organized with subtlety within a building of the era of Haussmannn triangular in the 16th district in the classic lounge style, with an Ecru carpet and matching Ottomans for seats, he felt like a moment of Paris paris paris paris. Which was surprising, since Ashi has built his reputation in evoking the raw desert and the sandy topography of his homeland.
But also great news, since this program marked Ashi as a modern determined not to rest in his laurels, but to experiment and expand his creative spectrum.
Copyright © 2025 Fashionnetwork.com All rights reserved.
