Often, the best parents of haute couture, a very French concept, are born thousands of kilometers from France. Three talents of this type, Elie Saab, Fang Couture and Ardazaei, offered impressive visions of revived haute couture classicism. None of them was born in France.
ELIE SAAB: Royal Court Couture
“I dreamed with a real court,” Elie Saab transmitted, after one of his most opulent and sculptural collections to date.
Organized inside the Pavillon Cambon, in front of Chanel's headquarters, the cast marched through the wrought iron staircase of Belle Époque towards a full house for the last show of Lebanese Couturier.
Keeping the real issue, Elie sent three veteran track princesses to open the show. The always challenging Dutch blonde beauty Lara Stone, involved with coal and candy cream Shantung, sculpted in an impressive dress.
The Russian beauty Sasha Pivovarova continued with a black velvet jacket from Decolleté, tied at the back and combined with Knickerbockers Cripe and a Moiré Satén train. Isabeli Fontana completed the trilogy in a velvet dress with VA-VA-VOOM curves, held united with diagonal lace seams.
His hair was disheveled, the throats rolled on black tape, this was the most sexy Saab opening in Eons. And there is no damage to that.
Then, Elie sent his famous workshop to Overdrive with beautiful dresses made with magnified spring flowers, finished with bugle accounts, strads and crystals.
A fabric fold technique at the front, used in Duchess satin dresses, was the work of a modern teacher working his magic. While her pyramid pink feathers was a work of amazing skills, as well as her reinvented and seductive French corsetry.
Composed in a palette of fresh macarons of nudes, pink coral pink, weak blue and mint, with tablespoons of black and imperial gold, felt like a magnificent court.
For those who want their haute couture to combine beauty with technical excellence, SAAB and their workshop are unsurpassed in their day. It is not surprising that Elie would win a standing ovation. When the cast gathered on the ladder, it took its modest family arch.
Fang Couture: Zhezhi Chic in the Eiffel Tower
East dialogic with West this season in Fang Couture, an elegant independent label that organized its first show on a terrace in front of the Eiffel Tower.
Created by Fang Yang, born in China, graduated from the remarkable Paris Fashion College Esmod, Fang is about combining large European fabrics and silhouettes with smart techniques.
The key idea of the collection was to use Zhezhi, the Chinese art of paper folding, a little like its origin version, which went from dubbed robberies in flowers to some seductive dresses from the folded Duchess's satin satin. The result was a very refined series of folded network dresses, such as a ruby red pod finished with small jade accounts outbreaks.
Fang founded the brand with his life partner Grégoire Caillol, and together they have dreamed a brand with a distinctive point of view. In 2015, he opened the MAN Couture Maison.
Fang also showed Peto tops made in wrinkled black organza finished with crystals, or a couple of beautiful bustier dresses of gauze lattice decorated with small amethyst, in red or softer beige.
“I wanted to work with silk and other fabrics in the way I had worked with paper. It is a tribute to my inheritance and also to my idea of Parisian elegance,” Fang explained in a previous view prior to the show.
When the sun descended, Yang organized its show, the refined delicacy of clothing contrasts happily by the raw power of the tower through the Seine. This quite comfortable with the West, like this collection.
Ardazaei: folded sea, fine food
Charles Darwin would have loved the latest Ardazaei collection, and the audience certainly did.
Darwin believed, quite rightly, that the origin of life was the land and sea meeting, so he studied mollusks on the banks of the North Sea, while a student from the University of Edinburgh. Like the great scientist, Ardazaei designer, Bahareh Arkadani, found inspiration in the sea, more specifically the hedgehog of the sea, with his improbable Pentaradial Geometry and his mythical state as “protection talismans.”
Titled The Folded Sea, the collection played in the ideal form of sea urchins, whose shells decorate coastal houses from Galway to Gootemburg, Nantes to Naples.
The result was a hyper original collection of wavy forms, quarrels and unexpected drama. Suggesting the curvature of a bivalvo with black blazers opening and bustier dresses. The brilliant finish of crustaceans in Techy Ecru pants suits. Or play visually in a stormy sea in an excellent Lurex dress in layers, finished with bold cuts. Everything seemed elegant and noble in the midday light of the ventilated ground floor of the Cartier Foundation. Ardazaei fell the honor of being the first Haute Couture house to show there from the recent restoration of the art center, in some intelligent management.
Although it is very aware of the echo, Arkadani is not afraid of using advanced fabrics, such as the cocktail “with armor” with protective straps that sat three inches from the shoulders, made of silk, cotton and stainless steel.
Arkadani could do it with a little self -edge. Many looks had too many swirls, dissections or flyers. But this was still a special fashion statement, using the power of fabric and fashion images to suggest a more beautiful and comprehensive world.
Organized at a slow speed, surprisingly to a soundtrack that included a beautiful extravagant industrial track called Baintermix metabolism, this was one of those shows that is only seen in Paris Couture.
Celebrated with delicious food courtesy of Danish chef Claus Meyer, a new Nordic kitchen star. The scallops bathed in caviar with white sturgeon caviar, crowned by a hint of fennel. The oyster emulsion with pickled cucumber and flowers, all washed by an excellent Spanish biodynamic wine, can ancestral ancestral montonega.
Now that I think about it, Darwin would also have approved the food.
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