On the five day it begins with the winner's circle

Monday was clear to snow but full of shows. Three designers, the winner of the CFDA awards, Rachel Scott of Diotima and Henry Zankov, in addition to Trish Wescoat, TWP pound, exceeded a reflexive and cunning side, an innovative nature and a meaningless approach to American fashion.

Diootime

When Rachel Scott of Diotima, the 2024 CFDA women's clothing designer, was culminating with the ideas and materials for her autumn/winter 2025 collection, the result of the 2024 elections came true, something that made the designer was at the height of, to put it gently.

“I was enraged and very angry with the results of the elections. The collection had not taken shape, but the address was reactionary to that; Usually, I don't like that, but you can't help being today, ”Scott told Fashionnetwork.com behind the scene of its installation style presentation held on the 39th floor of a FIDI offices tower over view of the water.

The designer wanted to take a historical perspective about women, particularly the Caribbean woman (Scott, 40, was born in Jamaica), but did not find many images of women from any background. “The history of women was really reduced and flattened; You may find a stoic or domestic matriarch, usually in your home. I wanted to break that and give it more complexity and nuances, ”he said.

Eager to learn more, he began to collect images of his community from their families, grandmothers and ancestors of several decades from the change from last century to the 90s. “They were intimate photos of women in their domestic environment; In his gaze and behavior, I discovered that the nuances and complexity he was looking for. The images were disturbing, ”he explained.

The team transformed the vast space into a presentation with multiple vignettes, each illuminated by huge spotlights. The sets that several rooms of a house remember took the shape of unarmed wooden furniture, stripped of upholstery and, often, were crooked or broken. A series of stacked mirrors broke ingeniously, which adds to the visual impact. The models slid with grace from one configuration to another, interacting with the pieces.

“She is angry, annoying and misunderstood, so there is the immediacy of which she puts things in her body,” Scott continued, explaining how the immediacy applied to his process but choosing to cover the body versus the rounds of patterns and sketches. “I usually cover crochet pieces but wanted to do it with different materials.” For example, some Harris Tweed styles, a wink to the United Kingdom meeting and the Caribbean culture, became a dress wrapped in a shoulder, revealing their waist while it was marked by a complete skirt.

The result was intriguing designs without being too complex. Thus, his domestic dwelling became part of her; The elements of a padded satin slope are seen in a shelter style; A glass sweater dress reminiscent of a nightgown of the 1950s, built by Drapeado, suggestions of being misguided and a little undone of the most sensual forms.

His night outfit presented a PJ and Bloomers of Chemise with accounts (also known as the first feminist underwear thanks to Amelia Bloomer), with a piano chal with fringes, each rich with the crafts that Scott is known. But you do not confuse this influence with a disheveled Hausfrau; Scott celebrates a Dionysia woman.

“It is domestic, but it is not what you think it is; It is not sweet; It is sensual, powerful, “Scott explained, pointing out that even their” external “looks have this side: a large square suit jacket with a strong shoulder and a flexible waist assent towards the military appearance. However, the jackets They are made of a macramé strip; a boiled wool bomber is rounded and soft leather versus hard.

“There is a tension between what you see and do not see, this inner world and the outside world,” Scott added. One has the feeling that the Dioima woman is also wearing for herself. So be it if she wants to stay at home and break the shit; In Scott's opinion, at least this time, she orders her own vision of herself.

Zankov

Another winner of the CFDA, Henry Zankov, the emerging designer of the year of 2024, also presented his collection well above Manhattan, this time in a raw space of more than 20 floors, overlooking the horizon of the city.

Zankov, who also won the Vogue CFDA 2023 background, likes to look at the music he listens to; This time, he reflected the Superstar of Warhol Nico, whose disturbing voice faced many of Velvet Underground tracks.

Therefore, in that particular era of the center of New York, Andy and its multitude of the factory, such as Candy Darling and James Baldwin in Giovanni's room, inspired the 2025 winter autumn collection.

Backstage, Zankov explained the evolution of its offerings: “It is a similar feeling; We are testing techniques and pushing what we can do with knitted clothes. It is a bit preppy with a sensation of the 60s; The color and style evoke the period, but it is never literal; It's just a feeling, ”he said.

Even so, one could see many styles, such as Edie Sedgewick, Baby Jane Holzer or Viva Sporting. He focused on a long and lean silhouette evidenced in a long white skirt with coordinated black marginal stripes and a scarf to the floor used with a upper turquoise pictures. The metal paillettes remembered the aluminum covered walls of the factory and the wrinkled Tinsel material while a Natty suit sounded out of the time. Other prominent aspects were the Mihair of mixed color, the tissues of 'car wash', also known as with long fins such as fringes and strong solid combos such as bluish and red green blue. The designer slipped into a few fabrics to balance certain looks.

Titled “I can't help it,” Zankov called some of his internal circle, a dear friend Chloe and his life partner Andrew as perhaps some of the “subversive spirits” that shouted in the notes of the program that feels that they are “more important . He is also known for collaborating with other designers such as Presley Oldham. It seems that it has its own small creative factory in process.

TWP

Trish Wescoat Pound, creative director of TWP, entitled her 2025 winter autumn collection “The incredible lightness of fashion”, a riff on Nietzsche's philosophy, which also inspired the 1984 novel by Milan Konera “The Inspire Lightness of Being “, took place during 1968 during the 1968 Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia. The principle is related to the universal loads of life, also known as heaviness and the individual who lives in lightness, perhaps not thinking too much about life and living for the moment and beauty.

This is something quite intoxicating for a collection driven by the former student's sportswear and the founder Hippie, who professes only “making women who love women.” In that sense, it tracks with its theoretical career: a reinterpretation of classics that is given a dose of 'Je ne Sais quoi'. Through style, layers and exploration of some different ways, the designer seemed to boost the idea.

Complete dissemination: Many of the true nuances of the design will be avoided in the exhibition room or in the exercise room, where one can approach. However, from a distance, some of the strongest ideas were shelter clothes, such as the launch toppers of more than all, from shear to double -sided wool and rain equipment in several lengths. The designer favored the cutting lengths of the coats, as well as the styles of satin and sequin clothing (lightness?) That he looked great and editorial, but will prove to be a challenge that sails through the life of the city.

TWP tissues are barely created to be used as created. Therefore, Suéter's dressing was an exercise in Sartoria: a scarf such as a belt, a half worn sweater on a dress or layers on layers turned around the shoulders, an emerging trend seen in Brandon Maxwell, Prabal Gurung and Todd Snyder, among others. Here, the heaviness sank, but it is a season of cold weather dressing. Not to mention that times feel deeply.

Wescoat subscribes to “clothes that do not shout but are not shy.” The guarantee was mainly in the form of style, which accumulated in the ideas and, in some cases, it was dominant, almost as if it were compensated in excess (the thyrors at the waist was simply uncomfortable; the same to be difficult to sell).

His ideology is not alone in the market; These concepts have prevailed so far in New York. (Some think it is the row effect, but isn't the theory and effect of Ralph too?) Fortunately, with former boss Andrew Rosen in his corner, his retail presence is also heavy.