Published
September 16, 2025
The action at New York Fashion Week concentrated on Brooklyn on Monday with distinguished and distinguished shows of Tory Burch and Diotima, after the day had opened with Zankov in Chelsea.
Tory Burch: Fashion in a Finance Cathedral
No one can criticize Tory Burch's excellent sensitivity when it comes to organizing a show, especially this season, when he presented within the luxurious Skyscraper of condominium a place Hanson.
Originally, the headquarters of the Williamsburg Savings Bank, the main lobby in this old finance cathedral built in the 1930s contains elements of Romanesque Byzantine architecture. What makes it the ideal location for this eclectic collection, which combines American sportswear Snappy, distressed fabrics and very silly imperfections.
Although diverse in its references, the collection was consistent with its fashion statement and objective. Few creators today understand the needs of occupied working women than Burch. His clothes have enamel but it is never prim.
She takes risks, like a large series of skirts and fallen waist dresses, but manages to achieve them with poise. She creates monogram silk sweaters, but keeps them playful with innumerable lyrics. She covers Plissé's chipped dresses with liquid viscose with pleasure.
Tory's aesthetics is fresh, brain and female, but never saccharin or tasteless. His cast seemed occupied women full of armed style with a great Lee Radziwill bag, each marching with supreme confidence.
It is not surprising that his first row would boast of Naomi Watts, Qin Lan, Tessa Thompson and Emma Roberts.
“We were thinking about the complexity of women and the different facets of their style. Femininity and strength, precision and imperfection. The clash of pristine tailoring with naive flowers, the seeds with anguished leather,” said Burch, who made a great smile, the sounds of the noisy who echoed the roof of golden mosaic.
Ditima: rejecting colonialism through Carnival
The colonialism and the struggle of the Caribbean culture against that evil through the carnival tradition, was the theme of an innovative and intriguing collection of Di Dietim this season.
However, although carnival archetypes riffo, the collection was far from clothing for a contest. The founder of Diotima, Rachel Scott, referred to many Carnival characters, with names like Baby Doll, Dame Lorraine, but the results were very portable clothes, fresh instead of theatrical statements.
Mix elements of active sport and haute couture: as a sleeveless mesh lid with hooded and pants finished by a layer skirt in gauze fragments; or mini vests accompanied by matte viscous crepe fabric skirts. Their mesh bodies with sequins with Chevron finish will have a great impact and will be copied by minor talents and street stores.
Scott can cover and sculpt with the best of them, their ability highlighted in some redingotas without flare flaws, in layers asymmetrically under the waist.
Combining all their tricks and techniques in a super series of night looks, they were used by a cast with the j'ouvert makeup previous pre-Dawn Street with silver clay daubs. That was before an end of feathery dresses with lightweight inland enagues.
Carnival Couture received enormous joy when Scott brought his arch inside an old warehouse mistreated in Greenpoint.
Last year's winner of the American women's clothing designer 2024 of the CFDA, Scott was recently appointed creative director of Proenza Schouler. In a word, Scott, born in Jamaica, is also the most original fashion designer of today's Americas.
Zankov: Knits and Stripes in Chelsea
On Monday he began with a debut on the track for Henry Zankov, whose collections driven by the point point have attracted great attention lately.
Zankov is another recent awards winner, catching the title of Google Shopping Shopping Designer of the Year in 2024.
Then, although this was the baptism of the Zankov catwalks, the program managed to attract buyers of Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Selfridges, Bergdorf and Sherri McMullen, whose boutique chain around San Francisco has won a reputation as an intelligent diviner of the trends comes.
Presented inside a totally white art gallery in Chelsea to an audience of just 150, the collection was beautiful and pleasant, even if the show never took off.
With some revealing fabrics: United Arpillera Clothing or wrinkled verification, Zankov's clothes look novel, although also strangely retro. With too many football carbashee and predictable lens mesh and pods. In addition, the style that featured head scarves and sunglasses only managed to remind one of Alessandro Michele's first decade Gucci shows. It is not exactly a look now.
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