Two mega brands were the main focus of New York Fashion Week action on Monday: Tory Burch, which put a sporty spin on things; and Coach, which emphasized post-consumer materials.
Tory Burch: From Valley Forge to Domino Sugar Factory
Although Tory Burch lives in a Louis XIV-style landmark building in Central Park, she often parades in increasingly trendy Brooklyn. The contrast is telling.
This season, Burch presented her Spring/Summer 2024/2025 collection inside the newly renovated Domino Sugar Factory, a former sugar warehouse that is the most architecturally significant new complex along the East River.
The complex is completed by a huge cylindrical glass atrium on the roof, with fabulous views of the New York skyline at sunset. An ideal setting for this elegant, artistic and sporty collection.
One of Burch's greatest skills is the ability to combine modernity with elegance, something that can be seen in practically every look in this excellent collection. Fifth Avenue meets Brooklyn.
Decidedly fitted, with quilted silk and wool tank tops and T-shirts over fringed jacquard skirts. Several silk jersey sports jackets with graphic prints on T-shirts or sequinned nylon swim shorts paired with cotton seersucker trousers. And then there were some show-stopping pieces that caused a stir, such as a dynamic flounced viscose and nylon dress in flesh tones.
“The synchronicity of movement and form. This collection began with the essence of sport: power and grace, freedom and precision,” Tory explained in his program note. He received a rapturous ovation from the crowd of hairdressers present.
Most attendees had arrived in chauffeured limos, others in Ubers, some by subway, and a few brave souls on electric bikes, riding across the giant Williamsburg Bridge and exiting the grounds past a towering equestrian statue of George Washington, the American commander, in a contemplative pose as he wintered in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, which is, of course, the rural town where Tory spent his childhood, and where history comes full circle with this spectacle.
Trainer: Hip on the Highline
No other designer is more in tune with Generation Z than Stuart Vevers, the creative director of Coach.
The British-born designer has been thinking about how the next generation is discovering American classics for the first time and in a new way. So he started taking archetypes, taking them apart and putting them back together again. He tried new proportions, distressing clothes or changing their color.
Stuart takes his role seriously, speaking to a generation that demands that brands make genuine efforts to develop a truly sustainable business model. Particularly at this show, where many of the creased and worn leather jackets – shrunken bikers, blazers and cropped vests – were made from used materials.
“It’s something we’ve been putting a lot of emphasis on for a few seasons now – sustainability with distressed leather jackets made from post-consumer material,” Vevers explained after the show.
Despite the lingering effects of COVID and working from home, more and more young Americans are returning to the office. Once again, Vevers created a chic new wardrobe for that trend: pinstripe suits in fine wool, oversized banker jackets, and even frock coats, worn by both men and women in this co-ed show. It was presented in stylish fashion on a branch of the High Line with Omykron's 'Negative emotions resonate through large speakers.
“In my opinion, the new generation is going into the workplace for the first time and is
“I'm getting into the world of tailoring, but in a light and fresh way. It's unlined, lightweight and made with little construction,” said Vevers, whose two children, River and Vivienne, ran to hug him as he bowed.
Copyright © 2024 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
