NYFW Friday: Jonathan Simkhai and Fform

The New York Fashion Week calendar on Friday presented two powerful collections by Jonathan Simkhai and Fformme, a staged in one air conditioning and the other in the study of an artist.

Both managed to capture America's restless energy with a fast staging and a bold fashion, despite the fact that both collections were designed by two designers born abroad.

Jonathan Simkhai: Aran Energy in Hudson Yards

Jonathan Simkhai was born in Tel Aviv, moving to America at the age of three and growing in Westchester. Although these days is based in Los Angeles, where he found the starting point for this collection, sailing through the Rose Bowl flea market. Acquire items such as a 1920s and a leather bomber jacket that lit the theme of this funky collection, frayed and frequently sexy and excellent.

A memorable show from the inaugural appearance: an irregular silk coat very fresh used with a semi-bar skirt and fastener cover; A large leather bomber jacket with a matching mini kilt, used by the first in a brilliant series of mechanical boots with industrial buckles.

Organized on the 37th floor of Hudson's 10 yards, the guests crossed the icy wind to reach this show. That caused the knitting-signs to plow and mini dresses so frayed that they could almost have been eaten by the moth) look perfect for next winter.

In a mixed show, the boys wore Arans with large width pants in industrial gray leather, the key tone in the color palette.

Although Simkhai's most great appearance was looks worthy of haute couture, such as wrinkled jackets or cocktail dresses with chalk chalk covered with dazzling stunning; Or a spike coat ended with jet floral accounts, used with matching boots. All the way to a tremendous final appearance: a lateral slope night dress that explodes with a crazy mosaic of pearls, rings, brooches and sequins. A true wow factor.

FFORM: Heritage Free, and thank God

Early in the day, one entered the Chelsea factory to witness the debut of Frances Howie for FFORM, a New Zealander with a first level CV, taking his first steps in New York.

The old house of the first New York taxis, and later the study by Annie Leibovitz, the expansive red brick show space was ideal for the galvanizing and authorized style of this debut collection.

Graduate from Central Saint Martins, under Louise Wilson's tutoring, nothing less, Howie spent almost four years with Alber Elbaz in Lanvin in Paris before joining Stella McCartney in London. Although his ideas for fals were a significant deviation of those of any of those European brands. FFORM was founded by Silicon Valley Nina Khosla products in 2022 as a direct concept to the consumer.

Its opening appearance had an elegant and ceremonial sense: elegant modern clothing in terms of silhouettes with soft layers, cut with an ingenious volume. Extended wide sleeves, elongated flasses and large -sized flow jackets with rolled leather belts, each completed with modern stripes.

While the tailoring had a great balance, their dresses had an artistic taste: bias dresses with unexpected torsion lines made of hammered viscose satin; or a fabulous and peculiar pink bubble column made of double crushed satin planted. Ending with layers of tape and dresses with dramatic textures made in Italy.

“FFORM: The name already suggests something sculptoric, but for me the main form is the feminine form. That's where I started, ”said Howie, who now believes in a study in Soho.

Working in a method similar to when I was with El Baz in Paris, cutting and draping half of a garment and then drawing the result before finishing the appearance.

The result was felt as a new perspective of modern luxury, not based on a patrimonial code dating from a century. And all the best for that.