A vintage brown military jacket with gold buttons was Nili Lotan's starting point. “I've made millions of military jackets but I've never made a brown one,” she said as she previewed the collection. A simple piece that took her on a journey through menswear fabrics through the English countryside: check, houndstooth, herringbone and more. But while country Queen Elizabeth II was on her mood board, Lotan “wasn't here on the farm, I'm in New York,” she said, focusing on her urban client.
The lush menswear fabrications formed a conversation around subtle textures, like a square-banded jacket in nubby brown tweed and gold buttons, a light blue chambray shirt underneath, and caramel corduroy cargo pants or his smart take on a jacket. overalls combined with a work suit. Utility jean style. Tailoring was in full force, loose but with sharp shoulders. Denim was a big focus again, and continued to evolve and elevate the staple. A pinstriped gray suit paired with a bow blouse could be completed with one of your classic outerwear pieces, such as a belted trench coat with a slight cocoon shape or a leather jacket.
Once upon a time, Lotan worked with Ralph Lauren and still finds inspiration in his time there, a link seen strongly here. She said that it was a pleasure to be a part of her “her world” and that she also has a constructed world, in which she continues to subtly evolve what is based on modern urban dress.
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