There is no more interesting fashion experiment than the twice-yearly guest couturier collection at Jean-Paul Gaultier, especially this season when Nicolas Di Felice hit a bases-loaded home run.
Nicolas Di Felice, whose day job is creative director of Courreges, incorporated much of that brand's space-age minimalism into these pieces, but always with a decent dose of Jean-Paul.
Especially morally, as Gaultier was an advocate of inclusivity, long before the word became commonplace. Four decades ago, his cast included dozens of transvestites and transsexuals, the same people who today are the target of anti-woke reactionaries.
Di Felice opened this show at Gaultier's rue St Martin headquarters with half a dozen models wearing hijabs, which gradually turned into lace before being removed as the show progressed.
“It's tempting to make the best of JPG. But if you think about it, what he did was tell stories. That's why each look in his shows had a name, such as 'The Miser' or 'The Spy'. So, he wanted a narrative, and to me that's what he said: 'you can come to Paris and be really accepted.' That's why at first his faces were covered, anonymous. But then they lose their clothes and in the end they are naked. I hope you understood that? Nicolas explained after the show.
Then, he referenced Gaultier's long visual crusade for sexual liberation with a dozen corsets and bustiers. Cutting several sizzling bias-cut dresses in midnight blue taffeta or raw indigo denim. While her use of micro staples, darts, slits and geometric strips of organza was suggestive and simply sensational.
Often, these designer collaborations with Gaultier can become petty battles of rival aesthetics, rather than perfect assemblages of differing tastes. They may seem like a supergroup from the '60s in which the musicians are very talented, but the music never stands out.
Not this season, where Di Felice's ideas held sway coolly, but felt laced with just the right dose of Jean-Paul DNA. Climaxing with flesh-coloured muslin and soft pink faille in some gloriously erotic looks.
Di Felice was careful not to say he was making a political statement, with elections looming this weekend in Paris. This vote may well bring to power a far-right party, which is openly against wokeness and despises the LGBTIQA+ community. And he decided to create two classes of citizens, demoting people born in France to non-French parents. And legally denying them rights to multiple positions within the government.
“Even if we live in a microcosm of fashion, unfortunately not being able to be the person you wanted to be is still a reality. That's what I wanted to say,” Nicolas added, after staging the most original haute couture show of the season.
Elie Saab: House of the Dragon chic
Elie Saab looked to a certain Slavic soul for inspiration this season, but the stunning results were often reminiscent of 'House of Dragon'.
Her catwalk inside the Louvre was lined with queens and empresses walking with great authority to face whatever life threw at them in a grand court.
A quintet of extremely seductive looks opened this Fall/Winter 2024/25 collection, dense black crepe dresses cut on the bias. Satin leaves or coq feathers blooming from the torso; trains extend a metre behind. A look enhanced by elbow-length black leather gloves.
Little by little it is transformed into lace or guipure, dotted with flowers in metallic satin fabrics. And made in Roman imperial purple or shimmering turquoise.
Columns of transparent silk lace, topped by marabou feather coats, like the superb version worn by veteran supermodel Karolina Kurkova.
In front of a stupendous semi-transparent guipure column, sparkling with crystals, wearing a leotard, she made the audience's hearts beat.
A parade that culminated with some impressive dresses with a worn neckline in dyed burgundy or black with pearl inlays, which remind us of Rhaenyra Targaryen.
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