Massimo Giorgetti punched the women's trend that is sweeping Milan in the name of Generation Z.
“There is a kind of anger from the new generation towards the last generation,” he said backstage, explaining the archetypes stolen from Mom (lunch suits, cocktail dresses and camel coats) to which he gave a rebellious touch with large industrial zippers. Burning colors, studs and shiny, slippery surfaces.
The designer named Ryan Murphy's popular series “Feud: Capote vs. The Swans,” anointing author Truman Capote “as a ghostwriter of the collection.”
He's also no doubt aware of the “old money” fashion aesthetic sweeping TikTok, which is probably why he purposely left the sleeve label intact on his versions of cinched-waist Bar jackets in speckled tweed, and why silk shift dresses represented Belgian artist Jan De Vliegher's lush oil paintings of ornate plates and elegant glassware. (The best ironic accessory for the latter look would be a gangly Stanley water glass.)
There were white jeans with furry fronts, an idea that seemed lifted from Phoebe Philo's comeback collection; elegant brocade coats; polka dot silks and others printed with real swans.
Worn without a slouchy hydration accessory (and its chunky Chukka boots and Mary Janes), these clothes run the risk of looking too maternal, but that's also the point. “Two generations together,” said Giorgetti, who also cast veteran models Tasha Tilberg and Guinevere van Seenus, who has walked numerous Milan catwalks.
For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.
