MSGM and JordanLuca exhibit underground fashion in Milan

Dark tunnels and dimly lit basements have become hot spots for Milan Fashion Week. MSGM showcased its urban collection in the Milan metro on Saturday, showcasing unique design elements. At the same time, JordanLuca chose the Central Station warehouse to present a lively British-inspired Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection.

To attend the MSGM show, you had to venture into the depths of the metro, specifically in the Porta Venezia station, renamed MSGM for the occasion. MSGM is not the first brand to choose the Milanese metro as its headquarters; Palm Angels also hosted a show there in June 2019, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of an urban jungle.

This time, the theme of speed took center stage, along with design influences drawn from the remarkably modern furniture and signage of the iconic Line 1. Designed in 1964 by rationalist architect Franco Albini and graphic designer Bob Noorda, the collection was inspired by the timeless design of the line, which marks its 60th anniversary.

The powerful avalanche, accompanied by the typical subway whistle, served as a soundtrack while images of fast-moving trains adorned the walls of the station. These images, created using artificial intelligence in collaboration with Google, were reproduced as prints on T-shirts, T-shirts, shorts or as abstract motifs on jacquard sweaters. “The use of AI for creation is both fascinating and disturbing, even a little disconcerting, but it is the language of today,” Massimo Giorgetti admitted backstage.

Apart from these printed elements, the Italian designer's next winter collection was quite sober and very design-oriented, sprinkled with some changes. Neoprene replaced leather in some suits, fur-lined collars, jackets and colorful shag slippers, and multicolored pins on denim ensembles were notable features. Without forgetting the retro motorcycle glasses reinvented in a futuristic style.

The entire collection spoke of speed and sudden accelerations. The wind, as the train approached, puffed up shirts and jackets. Subway rails ran along the sleeves or chest of polo shirts and knitwear, creating a clean geometric effect. The recognizable red tube-shaped railing of the Milan subway became a prominent question mark on a long black coat, a brooch on a dark sweater and a hand-held accessory.

In fact, the iconic and vibrant poppy red of Line 1 ran through the predominantly black wardrobe, infusing vigor, particularly through knitwear, cardigans and a coat in a dazzling hue. Other flashes of pop colors, such as turquoise and lemon yellow, appeared occasionally. The collection gave rise to a collaboration between the designer and the Franco Albini Foundation, continuing with the creation of a series of rugs.

See catwalk

A vibrant London atmosphere reigned at JordanLuca, where one night, at the back of a dark basement adorned with numerous silver balloons, mods in zippered parkas and tailored suits crossed paths with punk figures sporting mohawks, holey sweaters and baggy pants. . leather pants and high black stiletto boots. If the latter carried their essential umbrellas, they changed the briefcase and bowler hat for a bag with long straps that trailed to the ground and an aviator-style hood.

The silhouettes were elongated and conical, occasionally presenting volumes of rounded balloons, like the “bulldog” bomber, giving an air of an American footballer. This season, he came in a cream-colored knit version reminiscent of grandpa's long johns. The monolithic, square-cut coat with broad shoulders that extended to the calves was made of white-speckled Harris Tweed, resembling hyena skin. As for women, they opted for strict but sexy outfits, as well as tight or fluid dresses made of lace, latex or leather.

The haute couture streetwear brand, founded in London in 2018 by Englishman Jordan Bowen and Italian Luca Marchetto, continues its rise with impeccably constructed garments full of intricate details. All the characteristic elements created by the duo over the seasons were present: the double-collared shirt, horizontal zippers on the bars and vertical zippers on the back of pants, long pants, kilts, coats and jackets. Now, glasses cords transformed into metal rods were added, each end ending in a ring, very useful for holding thumbs.

For the past three months, the brand has had a new CEO, Radovan Biberovic, who has worked as Tomorrow London's COO for the past four years. His goal is to accelerate the development of JordanLuca, which currently only has around twenty multi-brand retailers, mainly in Italy and London, as well as in South Korea, China and Japan. “The team and designers are incredible, as is the company, which has great potential. We will focus on our e-store, the Asia-Pacific region and the United States,” he said on the sidelines of the fair.

Supported from the beginning by an industrial partner, JordanLuca also invested last year, through a minority stake, in an Italian sheep farm in the Marche region, affected by the earthquake that devastated the area in 2016. “It is the Sopravissana dei Sibillini, who raises “Locally endangered sheep. It is our way of supporting the territory and local communities. Our knitwear is made from the wool of these sheep, which we all know personally,” said Luca Marchetto with a broad smile.