The show notes for Adrian Appiolaza's Moschino debut were folded like a paper boat and placed on each seat, a very on-brand idea that the Argentine designer also used as eccentric hats for his final looks.
The collection selected familiar ingenuities from founder Franco Moschino: the T-shirts with ironic slogans, trompe-l'œil prints, those big question marks, peace signs, polka dots, pearls, ruffles and nods to Rue Cambon.
This was a rush job and you could feel it. Behind the scenes, Appiolaza, a seasoned number two who has worked at Loewe, Chloé and Miu Miu, noted that he only officially started at the beginning of the year, so he dove straight into the archive and decided to focus on the most iconic references.
You can already see that Appiolaza's approach is based more on restraint and real clothing than on the sometimes outlandish and campy fashion parodies of his predecessor Jeremy Scott.
“The idea of messages through clothing,” Appiolaza said backstage. “The idea was also to play with real ready-to-wear archetypes, creating characters.”
Appiolaza, a noted collector of avant-garde fashion, said he primarily bought shirts and vests from Moschino, and that this personal connection was felt in his belted satin tailoring, an offering also seen at Prada that same day, and his vests. blacks. dangling garter clips, to which were tied empty stockings that dangled like streamers.
The mustachioed designer stormed out to greet his French bulldog Nena on a leash, and the gesture somehow struck a chord with Moschino, too.
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