Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
January 16, 2025
On Wednesday night, as a special guest in Pitti Uomo 107, MM6 Maison Margiela literally shone in her male clothes with a surprising parade. The Parisian label, owned by the OTB Italian Fashion Group, chose as a place of the huge list of Tepidarium Giacomo, an Italian Art Nouveau greenhouse in Florence, which MM6 became a dark place, a cross between a sowing street and a hangar abandoned. The ideal scenario for a disturbing night breaks veined with melancholy.
The room was established in the dark while the models were advanced as many shadows. His atmosphere was partly misunderstood, part of the damn rock star, the eyes hidden by large dark glasses, ties turned around his necks such as clay scarves. Bright Spotlights threw white beams, revealing a predominantly black collection, a wink to the show organized by Maison Margiela in Pitti Uomo in 2006, when he presented a collection exclusively with total white look.
Occasionally, red and green spotlights illuminated the silhouettes, creating unexpected effects, while colors arise as occasional rays. Like the sparkling turquoise lurex suit that is used on bare skin, and another bright red blue fabric suit. The MM6 maison margiela closet for autumn/winter 2025-26 seems to have been designed to live in the center of attention. For example, the black denim jacket and the review with pockets and metal buttons with matching pants, the fabric washed here and there as if the whole set were swept by a beam of lighting light sections.
Similarly, turtle neck sweaters generated a brilliant effect thanks to the Lurex thread. A three -piece velvet suit, too worn without a shirt, presented an innumerable small print star. Otherwise, the linen jacket, a classic of Pitti Uomo, was reinterpreted in a bright fabric with a false leather effect.
The inspiration and the main theme of the collection were an image of Miles Davis with a leather coat, eyes stored in cache behind huge dark glasses, cigarette in the mouth, encapsulating the energy and sensual atmosphere of these more or less 30 looks of Roca co -finance, at the same time glamorous and minimalist. Why jazz? “Because [jazz] Music has a visceral connection with fashion, it is great effortless. And because the American musician was an icon of style, “said creative team designer MM6, who chose at the beginning to remain anonymous.
“Come to Pitti Uomo gave us the opportunity to reflect on our range of male clothes, designing a collection specifically for this occasion. It is a contemporary closet that reflects the attitude, concepts and the creative process of MM6. Our garments are designed to emphasize the identity of those who use them. We really wanted to talk about male clothes. Appearances are still highly wearable, although they convey a certain extravagance. We think about how to create strong and surprising elements, made to have a surprising impact, while careful attention to textures, an essential element in male clothing, ”said designer MM6.
The collection presented costumes, gabardines, waterproof, motorcyclist jackets, thin adjustment pants, denim jackets and more. All basic male clothing products were presented in a variety of fabric materials and treatments, from vinyl to suede and leather with a machate paper effect. MM6's male charm was carefully defined by specific details. From the square tip footwear (whether brogues with laces or motorcyclist boots) to accessories, such as the helmet transported by one of the models. A very elegant reversible top in false mink, turned backwards, transformed into a practice nylon bomber jacket lined with leather.
MM6 also exhibited imposing modular gloves in black or black leather, a two model in one made by French producer Agnellele, who combines a pair of classic driving gloves with a zipper sleeve cover to protect the dolls. Another attractive accessory was the weekend travel bag shaped like a compact rectangular trumpet case, with practical handles to be horizontally transported, also equipped with additional handle to transport vertically.
MM6 was created by Maison Margiela in 1997 and introduced male clothes three years ago. Men's collections represent a third of MM6 sales. Without important advertising or special communications, the line has gradually expanded and has now become a label in its own right, competing with names such as Acne Studio, Miu Miu and Loewe. It is currently distributed through 600 multibrand retailers worldwide, and 23 monobrand stores: 11 of them in Japan, three in Europe (in London, Milan and Paris, a concession in Lafayette galleries), three between Hong Kong and Macao, and six in China.
“For us, it is an incredible honor and opportunity to show in Pitti uomo. Florence is a magical city that has always been lucky for us, and where we have also shown with Diesel and Marni, ”said OTB president Renzo Rosso, in the backstage. Rosso did not mention any news regarding the main label, Maison Margiela, who has recently separated from his iconic creative director John Galliano, who left after 10 years in charge. “His successor will be announced in due time. Meanwhile, we can count on a wonderful internal design team, “Rosso said, stressing that” in the past, the label remained active for four years without a creative director. “
MM6 will be shown again in Milan in February with its collection of women's clothing, in addition to some men of men.
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