Miuccia Prada took her bow at the Miu Miu spring show with Fabio Zambernardi, as she did at Prada in Milan, paying tribute one last time to her longtime companion. Zambernardi now leaves his position as design director of Prada and Miu Miu after more than 40 years at the Italian fashion houses.
Prada wore an elegant fawn-brown leather coat that had an unusual feature: a black knit hood that hung below the collar, changing the attitude from Milanese establishment elegance to something a little more mysterious and edgy.
Her fascinating spring show was filled with strange fashion companions, like a petticoat with a jacket or neoprene shorts with a polo shirt and a coat.
He had mixed a variety of archetypes (including security guards, surfers, schoolgirls, preppies, and librarians) and given the models nerdy glasses, colored Band-Aids on their heels and toes, and matted or frizzy hair.
It seemed like an anti-glamour statement, although glamor was never far away. She was there, in the thick crystal necklace that covered the collar of a navy blue polo shirt; with chunky heels tucked into multi-pocket bags and shimmering gold brocade sheath dresses mixed with business shirts.
Miu Miu’s microskirts and pantsless silhouettes continue to influence many other catwalks, and Prada hasn’t abandoned those ideas, just as it never abandons the almost homely sweaters, here paired with bright flapper dresses and pretty leather cars or in view of. jackets, here thrown over swimsuits or whatever.
The runway cast, which included actors Troye Sivan, Cailee Spaeny and Mame Bineta Sane, reinforced the feel of a character study, rather than trend-mongering.
After the show, Prada was harassed by supporters and journalists, who asked questions such as “What is fashion?” and “Are you looking forward to being a grandmother?”
Prada responded to all of them bravely, sometimes elliptically, but in the end concluded: “I think the focus has to be on the person… Fashion counts for you personally when you want to impress, or you want to be sexy, or you want to talk. oh really”.
Once again, she presented a lot of interesting clothing for any mood.
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