Minimalism by Calcaterra, happy vibes by Fiorucci, Sagaboi

On Thursday, the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week showcased extremely diverse Fall/Winter 2024-25 collections, designed for self-sufficient women who like to express themselves through their appearance. Designers emphasize their own unique identities, presenting smart collections with a fun twist. Joyful vibes characterized Fiorucci and Sagaboi, while Calcaterra took minimalism to the max.

Calcaterra welcomed guests at Moebius, a tapas and cocktail bar in a lively Milan neighborhood. The venue, illuminated by large skylights, welcomed the models in a confidential atmosphere. They all showed an innate elegance in their austere autumnal looks, energized by a few pops of vibrant red. Generous volumes, designed to guarantee maximum comfort, were the order of the day.

Large coats and capes, in some cases with abundant pockets, reached to the ground, enveloping the body. A masculine-style jacket wrapped around the figure, which was accentuated by a tight-fitting high-necked jumpsuit. White suits featured collarless, buttonless double-breasted jackets. Simple tunics of shiny satin were worn over matching pants.

Small details underlined the fluidity of the lines, like the white sail-shaped scarf placed inside a gray suit jacket, or the fabric flowers and leaves sewn along a bouclé wool coat, as if they had fallen from a tree. There was also fluidity in the tops and dresses seemingly sculpted from fabric, cleverly wrapped around the body.

As usual, designer Daniele Calcaterra has created a powerfully minimalist collection, focusing on innovative fabrics and textiles. He used fine wools, cotton, silk and alpaca, often mixed with high-tech fibers. Each look was carefully thought out in terms of weight, length, lines and balance of proportions, resulting in extremely powerful designs. Items of timeless elegance, designed to make women feel special in their daily lives.

In her second collection for Fiorucci, designer Francesca Murri continued to explore the dual nature of the legendary brand, at once innocently angelic and vibrantly fun. For example, a pair of red wellies paired with a white cotton t-shirt that extended into a pair of suspenders. Sexy candy pink high heels came equipped with riding spurs. Face powders found an alternative use as earrings. Sorbet prints appeared on the lining of some jackets and coats.

Murri breathed a lighthearted, fun vibe into the collection through a lookbook designed as a photo story, her photographs taken in Fiorucci's new showroom/creative center the backdrop to the new looks. Love played a leading role, of course, each photo a romantic picture. And the collection addressed the romantic theme through the messages embroidered on the clothes, all about love.

Except for the pastel pink that characterizes some of the looks, such as the vinyl bodysuit worn under a tailored formal suit, bright colors abound, such as the electric blue of a top with tassels and a garland effect, or the contrasting shades of red, cherry color. red to bright violet, in other articles. A sequin jumpsuit was worn under tomato red sweatpants, embellished with white trim.

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The collection presented by Sagaboi in its debut on the Milanese catwalk on Thursday radiated the same positively vibrant vibe. Sagaboi was born in 2015, initially as a magazine, under the auspices of Trinidad-born but London-based Geoff K. Cooper, and transformed into a full-fledged fashion brand in 2022. Sagaboi's focus is menswear, but he starred in a mix of genre shows in Milan impregnated with Caribbean spirit.

The girls walked the runway in long, thigh-length braids intertwined, in some cases intertwined with the flowing straps at the end of a miniskirt. In a set of boots and miniskirt, sparkling with turquoise or orange sequins, ribbons spun like garlands along the models' legs.

Other looks featured colorful furry fur blouses, slogan-inscribed tank tops, and multicolored striped crochet sweaters. Miniature metal container lids sat like bra cups on white cotton shirts. Longer ensembles added a festive touch, such as bodycon jumpsuits and sheath dresses in a vibrant palette of yellow, red and mauve.