Milano Moda Uomo: Ralph Lauren, the coolest classicism

The house of Ralph Lauren rarely hosts menswear shows in Milan, which is a shame since their show this Friday was the coolest, smartest display of menswear classicism we've seen in many moons.

The smoothest show too. Brilliantly presented inside Ralph Lauren's European headquarters, a geometric gem of a rationalist-era building. Guests, from Tom Hiddleston and Colman Domingo to Nick Jonas, sipped champagne and cookies as they took their seats on leather banquettes.

Opening with around twenty Polo looks, a rich selection of fun and very tasteful ideas: red flannel shirts with turkey prints; wool sweaters with Navajo graphics; snow crystal print cardigans; and even a brown three-piece Prince of Wales suit. All anchored by touted alpine hiking boots or LL Bean style wellies; or accessorized with Black Watch tartan rug bags.

There are many Western styles, from brown suede denim urban jackets with fringes, worn by a model with an acoustic guitar on his back, to lace ties, ranch hats and riding boots. Very Yellowstone in Lombardy.

Backed by a great soundtrack, where Sinnerman by Nina Simone followed Texas Sun by Khruangbin and Leon Bridges. Ideal for bold and colorful motorcycle jackets that say: Ralph Lauren Racing.

As the day moved into the night, Scottish baronial elegance made an appearance: from red checkered Clan Stewart tuxedos worn under a Count Dracula cape to a large black Grenadier Guard military tunic worn with a black silk shirt – a petit merci for Dior. Although it is seen on models wearing New York Yankees baseball caps.

“We had so many looks and ideas in this collection that it seemed right to do a show this week in Milan,” explained Andrew Lauren, sitting among the movie stars on the villa's covered patio.

All used by a very diverse cast, from all continents of the world. And one couldn't help but notice that when it came to the two impeccable chalk-striped bankers, these were worn by one South Asian and one East Asian.

Although there was clearly no deliberate political message, the very heterogeneity of the cast was a reminder of how Ralph has always celebrated America's diversity. Which, at a time when ICE is clearly racially profiling United States citizens, made this program seem very powerful.

This is the American melting pot that Europeans love. Not the white supremacy that is currently being imposed on people.