A two F story on Saturday morning in Milan, with Big Budget shows by Ferrari and Ferragamo, when Milan's fashion week of six days entered its penultimate day.
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He felt as a great brief change in Ferrari, with a more luxurious version of fashion and clothing for career men and women.
Gone are the expensive off-White versions that characterized much of the first collections of designer Rocco Iannone for Ferrari. Instead there was an elegant tailoring and elegant cocktails that would not have seemed out of place, at least in their youth, in Marella or Gianni Agnelli, the Fiat billionaire who acquired the mark of Formula one of the founder Enzo Ferrari.
Presented with Panache within the old Versace theater in the portable neighborhood that occurs in southern Milan, the collection also stressed the considerable rank of Rocco.
The show was opened with insured belt coats and a pure Eisenhowers back while the cast toured four parallel tracks. The tailoring was surgical and agile, often made from a dense pile of chalk plowing, seen in jackets and double -chest raffis jackets with inclined pockets for men and women. All finished on the back with high seams and a cargo of car medallion in the neck.
In addition, in a season that marked the massive skin return, Rocco exhibited Klondike coats with bold hair hair, long skirts combined with crispy man shirts and introduced large iridescent scissors winter coats.
The models appeared against an amazing curtain of velvet bottom of Purple Roman Imperial, highlighting the jackets of Jean with golden goat skin and the elegant night cocktails, perfect for formal events and discos.
“The spirit of the brand is counted through the garments that condense precise aesthetic and artisanal values (sensuality, a sense of volume, an authentic and chromatic vibrant investigation, while defining, all together, a specific and authentic apparatus,” reads the notes of the Rocco Falutina program.
Soundtracked for the dance tracks of Ibiza and “Flying Apples” of Fabio Martoglio and used by an impressive cast, there were worst ways to start a Saturday morning in Milan wet.
Ferragamo: A dance to Pina Music
A fine, frequently fabulous collection of Ferragamo was organized quite strangely in the midst of the darkest light, evoking the mysterious and somewhat muddy performance of this house.
The creative director of Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis, clearly has the design skills for paper and has obtained critical approval. All key scribes in Milan gathered behind the stage to celebrate Davis and hold on to each word after the show.
On the track there is a poetic and evocative collection inspired by Pina Bausch, which uses relatively easy but made in the most opulent fabrics.
“It is a story about Ferragamo and Dance. What I wanted to make was the style and meaning of Pina's comfort, where everything was very easy, pieces without effect,” explained the designer raised in the United Kingdom.
The collection was opened with simple pods, leggings, tense tapas in layers under double -sided puzzle coats and t -shirts made of wool basket and Georgette dresses.
The ladies tailoring was elegant, from the crispy Blazers de Manisno to several overwhelming leather suits with horn buttons. Davis also hugged the largest trend in Milan: the use of sheep skin treated to resemble Fox, Wolf or Mink, brighter woven in semi-baro cocktails or a jacket of the night of the rock goddess used with a sinful red oversight.
In a mixed show, men wore spacious costumes with mega rainy pants worldwide with reverse pounds, harlequin sweaters or pale gray gray basket banker costumes.
Everyone walked on thousands of scented paper rose petals, a selected idea of the archives of the 80s of the house.
“All Pina's work is romance, passion and tension, and I wanted that in the program,” Davis smiled, who has not yet designed costumes to dance.
However, like the moody lighting, the style felt too complicated, with models that maneuver double bags at their waists while wearing puppy socks.
This show, organized in a factory in northern Milan used by multiple brands, also raised many questions. If Davis is so talented, why are Ferragamo numbers fighting? Sales decreases in the last two years led to the CEO Marco Gobbetti's departure just three years after their arrival. Gobbetti, who hired Davis, said goodbye today.
In the end, one wonders if Davis's vision could be too refined for Ferragamo's wife, especially and ironically, her best appearance: a red cocktail dress and a final black silk cocktail dress adorned with fabric stems and flowers.
“It was about taking the most common pieces and reinventing them in unexpected ways, such as sewing feathers instead of down so that they have a more overturned effect. But in the background, these are still direct exchange dresses,” Davis said.
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