Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
February 8, 2024
Milan women's fashion week, scheduled for February 20-26, has presented an intense program of events, despite losing several regulars. Between parades, presentations and many other events, the program will have 161 events, compared to 176 last September. Among the highlights of the fashion week, which focuses on women's ready-to-wear collections for Fall/Winter 2024-25, are several new and returning names, including Marni, as well as the first collections of the new creative directors of Blumarine, Tod's and Moschino.
Milan Women's Fashion Week will begin on Tuesday, February 20 with a rich calendar of events, including the first runway show by Italian brand Twinset. In the coming days, the traditional parade calendar will continue its course. Among the events scheduled for the first day, the show by Lisa Von Tang stands out, a Singaporean designer who usually shows in New York and who now produces her ready-to-wear and handbag collections in Italy. Fashion Week will begin on Wednesday and will feature 56 shows in five days, two of them double, compared to 60 last September. On Monday the 26th, Annakiki, Maison Mencioni, Münn, Phan Dang Hoang and Laura Biagiotti will close the week with their digital shows.
One of the unmissable events will be the Diesel catwalk, which will open on Wednesday. Preparations, including casting and styling, will be broadcast live on Diesel's social media channels, and the event itself will be open to the public with a thousand guests expected. On Thursday, all eyes will be on the debut of Adrian Appiolaza, new creative director of Moschino, and on Friday, on those of Matteo Tamburini at Tod's and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine.
Marni will also present its long-awaited comeback show on Thursday, returning to Milan after opting for Paris last season. Francesca Liberatore also returns to the Milanese calendar, after having shown in September at the Lineapelle leather goods fair, and also Elisabetta Franchi, who had retired from the official calendar in February 2023. Another important event will be the presence of the fashion brand Brioni men's collection, which will present its first full-fledged women's collection in Milan. The performance schedule will include five new names: Cozy Sunday, Jarelzhang, Khrisjoy, Maison Jejia and Raisa Vanessa.
There will be two newcomers to the show calendar, both regulars at London Fashion Week. The designer-influencer Geoff K. Cooper, originally from Trinidad and Tobago, will show on Thursday the 22nd with Sagaboi, his men's clothing brand inspired by Caribbean culture, launched in magazine form in 2015, and in 2022 as a fashion brand. On Sunday the 25th, Ethiopian designer Feben Vemmenby, supported by Dolce & Gabbana, will present the new collection of the brand Feben de ella.
These new registrations will only partially compensate for the gaps left in this season's parade calendar by no less than 11 withdrawals. In fact, several emerging Italian labels, such as Cormio, Andreadamo, The Attico and Act N°1, have opted for a presentation format. Other names that will miss Milan Fashion Week this season are the traditional Italian brand Luisa Beccaria, and a series of international names that have shown in Milan recently, such as the Chinese designer Shuting Qiu, based in Antwerp, the Dane Han Kjobenhavn , the Hungarian collective the Budapest brands Select, the German accessories brand Aigner, the Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto, who was supported by Dolce & Gabbana last season, and the German brand Boss, which normally shows in Milan, although mostly all in September.
“The situation is not easy, especially for younger labels. Many of them have reached a new stage in their development path, which prompted them to look for different formats and solutions. Making that decision is a necessity, even strategic, given the cost of a parade. Some brands will return in September,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber (CNMI).
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