Published
January 18, 2026
In a busy but chilly 24 hours, Milano Moda Uomo ranged from animalistic mountain party style at Dsquared2 or fishermen-inspired moods at Setchu, to Paul Smith's archival revival and Corneliani's AI-influenced exhibition.
Dsquared2: Rocky Mountain ravers
Dsquared2's treat this season was a ski pass, although one imagined it primarily allowed guests access to an après-ski bar or after-hours club and not an actual mountain slope.
The backdrop was the wild, snow-covered Canadian Rockies, the star of the show was “Heated Rivalry” star Hudson Williams, pouting as he walked down the snow-white slope in a denim jacket with frayed seams, faded black jeans and the first in a large series of new futuristic cowboy boots finished with ski bindings.
Designers Dean and Dan Caten combined trends and sex with high-shine latex stockings worn with faux fur coats or studded corsets. In a clever love, the Dsquared2 duo combines frosted denim jeans, loon pants, jackets or huge Klondike coats. Along with a great series of huge, shiny puffer jackets, ideal to wear to a party to celebrate the gold medal winner at the Milan Cortina Winter Olympics next month.
It's no wonder they titled this Fall 2026 collection, “Game On.”
Many models sport retro-futuristic glasses and sunglasses in collaboration with Carrera, often completed with a Dsquared2 x Carrera elastic band.
Despite the cold theme, the model sizzled, especially two shirtless young meat pies with pneumatic drill bellies, who were later asked to carry Dean and Dan on their shoulders as they received their ovation at the raucous finale. The Canadian twins seemed to be in heaven.
Setchu: from Greenland to Normandy
One of today's most fertile fashion designers is Satoshi Kuwata, who staged his third show in his new home, a renovated atelier on Via Privata Rezia, in northwest Milan.
For the next season, Kuwata once again looked to his favorite pastime for inspiration: fishing. For the uninitiated, it maintains a rich tradition among distinguished designers, as Oscar de la Renta and John Rocha share a similar obsession with rod tossing.
And, thanks to winning the LVMH Prize 2023, this designer born in Japan and based in Milan was able to make his lifelong dream come true: fly to Greenland to catch the best cod in the world.
“I know Greenland is very much in the news now, but I went there before the current fashion boom started,” he warned in a pre-show briefing.
Known for his innovations in fabrics, Satoshi devised a remarkable silk and wool jacquard that looked uncannily like sealskin. Seen with a draped top and skirt in this co-ed show.
Mixing east and west, he also played with the traditional hoodie from Japan's frigid north and woven high top shoes from the sunnier south.
Mixing East and West with samurai-style duffle coats or ruched banker suits: Tokyo financier meets Oxford rock star.
Paul Smith: archival energy
Sir Paul Smith's love affair with Milan continues, as he enjoyed greeting new eyes to witness this latest archive-inspired collection.
An independent Anglo-classical collection with a twist from the designer, who personally opened the show with a witty monologue, speaking into the microphone from the top floor of the third floor showroom.
“Fashion is becoming more and more mass produced. Can you believe it, hmmmm?” lamented Sir Paul, opening his comments with a megaphone, noting that his design team was inspired by his company's archive of more than 6,000 looks. Their ideas, in turn, inspire him.
Twisting the classics so much that several blazers were literally made inside out, showing exposed seams and shoulder pads. A collection whose construction was very in tune with the broader silhouettes that dominate the current season. Cut the jackets so that they hung away from the body and the pants had a very wide, flat front.
Additionally, in a season of iridescence, the cast donned shiny pants and military cape shirts made of active sport nylon. However, when the wind blows from the Alps as it did today, the cast could wrap themselves in the seasonal fabric of Donegal tweed-style speckled wool, fashioned into weekend jackets with flap pockets and soft-collared coats. Various matching models with mini tricorns.
Backed by Ryuichi Sakamoto's “Riot in Lagos”, it was a joyous moment. Sir Paul earned prolonged applause as he descended two floors on a long journey down the winding walkway.
Corneliani: AI meets Milan
Using AI, Corneliani creative director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte commissioned a novel film that recreated iconic cinematic moments. Its title: “The Knight.”
Presented within a Renaissance courtyard, it served as a great backdrop for his latest collection for the house – an elegant blend of elegant and practical style. Presented in a dozen models, before a select group of editors, sitting in cinema seats from the 30s.
Amidst all the cold Saturday drizzle, trench coats with patch pockets and crystals looked ideal, as did mohair-blend coats with V-necks.
Made in a mix of mauve, mud, pale grey, chocolate and more mauve colors.
“We have presented our latest shows with music and dance for the last two seasons. This season, we use AI to express those magical moments in cinema and fashion's special relationship with the big screen,” he explained.
Also impressive inside the palazzo was a matelassé sweater, now made of sheepskin, combined with a merino wool sweater with a high collar. Or a brushed suede jacket in mud tones worn with a Nehru collared shirt in faded bronze.
But in the end, Corneliani's heart will always be his classy suit. Made more attractive by Stefano's relaxed interpretation of masculine style. Call it “Modern Gentleman.”
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