Milan Fashion Week kicks off on Tuesday with one more day and a few fewer stars

Milan is back to its old-fashioned routine with a Women’s Fashion Week packed with side events. After years of struggle, the Camera della Moda (CNMI) has finally managed to launch its calendar a day earlier, on Tuesday 17 September, extending as usual until the following Monday, 23 September, which is usually dedicated to digital shows. Milan Fashion Week will feature the same shows as last February, even without its star, Giorgio Armani, who will show in New York on 17 October, and Tom Ford, who this season will present a show before moving to Paris under the aegis of its new creative director, Haider Ackermann.

The Spring/Summer 2025 collection programme has lost eight names and added eight new ones, including those who are returning as designers and those who are coming to the catwalk. In total, 55 shows are expected in the Lombard capital this week, 54 if you take into account the double Emporio Armani show, which will close with a big party in the Milanese house's theatre. But this programme is joined by numerous shows and parallel events, such as the long-awaited first show by Fiorucci, the iconic brand acquired at the end of 2022 by the Swiss businesswoman Donna Bertarelli and directed by Francesca Murri.

Although not on the official calendar, Fiorucci will open the Milan Triennale shows on Tuesday 17th, before giving way to Fendi, Marni, Alberta Ferretti and Iceberg. The first day will be particularly busy, with other shows on the programme including those of Twinset, Maryling and Redemption, which will celebrate its tenth anniversary, as well as the after-party organised by Iceberg to celebrate its fiftieth anniversary.

In total, 173 events have been announced, of which 75 are presentations and 33 are events. These include exhibitions by Palm Angels and Niccolo' Pasqualetti, which will be presented for the first time in Paris next week, and a K-pop dance show for the Milanese public in Piazza del Duomo by the accessories brand MCM. The Black Carpet Awards will be presented on Friday 20 September, and to top it off, the Chamber of Fashion will present its Green Fashion Oscars on Sunday 22 September at La Scala, as part of the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2024.

Absent are Blumarine, which is in a transition phase with the arrival of its new creative director David Koma, and MSGM, which presented its women's collection in June alongside its men's collection to celebrate its 15th anniversary. This time, the label will hold a presentation. Chiara Boni's La petite robe and Maxivive, the label of Nigerian Papa Oyeyemi, are also betting on the video format this season, which will be screened on 23 September.

Also not showing on the catwalk are Sagaboi, the London label of Trinidadian Geoff K. Cooper, which debuted last season in Milan. Cooper, of Trinidadian origin, who debuted in Milan last season, and the Ethiopian designer Feben, who had the support of Dolce & Gabbana last February. She was to give way to the Chinese designer Susan Fang, but her show has been postponed until February.

The Week will, however, feature new names and the return of some labels. Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang and Chinese designer Chiccomao by Mao Bao Bao will make their debut on the Milanese catwalks. Some young labels, absent in recent seasons, will return, such as Federico Cina, The Attico and Andreadamo, as well as less young names such as Luisa Beccaria and, above all, Laura Biagiotti, who, after opting for the digital option, is returning with a physical show to celebrate her 50th birthday. Finally, Boss, which shows in Milan every two seasons, is back on 18 September.

As always, Milan will host the big names of Made in Italy, from Roberto Cavalli and Etro on Wednesday 18th, to Max Mara, Prada and Moschino on Thursday 19th, Tod's, Gucci, Missoni and Versace on Friday 20th, and Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta on Saturday 21st.

The Week will close on 23 September with a day dedicated to virtual shows, eight of them, including five new names such as Defaïence by Nicola Bacchilega, Francesco Murano, Jacob Cohën, Rè Shui' and Viapiave33. At the same time, in its Fashion Hub, the Chambre de la mode will host a series of emerging fashion houses and projects dedicated to international design, from Korea to Latin America and China.