Milan Fashion Week: Jil Sander, Fendi, Etro and Loro Piana

On a Tuesday Flood of Rain in Milan, an action flood, with a debut to the house of Simone Bellotti in Jil Sander, a show of Euphoric Fendi and a directional flagship opening, a presentation of ETR concerts and a presentation of the Loro Piana Museum.

Jil Sander: Reduction and protection

It is good to see a minimalist brand, making a modern minimalism, which was the case in the debut of Simone Bellotti.

A return to the historic headquarters of Milan's house for this show, but not a remotely retro collection, while Bellotti released a completely elegant clothing closet, occasionally technical explosion.

The cast quickly walked around a black track inclined in the completely white exhibition space, about three decades since Jil Sander first opened its Italian headquarters in the shadow of Castello Sforzesco.

A monochromatic appearance, which begins with many elegant light wool shirt jackets, paper leather jackets and grocery -shaped lambs skin. All ironed perfectly. Opening with the veteran Guinvere Van Seenus model that shows a lot of belly in an agile white leather skirt and a short -blue puppy lid. Preparing the scenario for the collection, with knee -cut dresses, but it is often cut in the hip, revealing meat regularly.

In the clear tailoring, the cut leather debutant and the jackets with great skill, combining them with leggings and simple shoes.

Experimenting with materials, Simone used technician taffeta acres in excellent trenches and villeros. Inverting with some remarkable cocktails of Mille Feuille, made of micro caps of taffeta that are very softly as the models precipitated.

“For me, Jil Sander is a house that has two apparently opposite feelings. There is classicism, formality and rigor, but also, it is a search for modernity and lightness. So, basically, I was finding the key to balance those elements,” Bellotti argued.

A highly experienced designer, Bellotti joined Jil Sander de Bally after seasons with Gucci, Gianfranco Ferré and Bottega Veneta.

He had telegraphed his angular intentions with the invitation: two photos of newspaper batteries photographed by the good artist Richard Prince. In total, an impressive debut from Bellotti, respecting Sander's DNA, even when he injected his own style.

In the end, in the midst of great applause, he took an almost solemn quiet arch, like an old professional who had just hit a home run.

Fendi: translúcically modern

Is there an Italian designer who has a more imbued luxury in his soul that Silvia Fendi? It is difficult to imagine who, after his last show of good taste, modern and translucent for Fendi's house.

Presented within the gigantic show space of the house in Via Andrea Solari, this season was renewed on a minecraft multicolored chess board, designed by Marc Newson. Like the e-vite, whose pixation pressed in the color palette of the program.

With the audience perched on the whitish seats, the cast came out elegant, strange enough for the industrial rock, “Metallic Life Review” by Matmos.

For the day, Silvia wanted women to be sexy, but the knee silk skirts were always seized with straps; dresses made of woven leather and cut aside; or the pareos cut asymmetrically and weave. The jackets were short, sports and easily balanced.

Emphasizing the optimistic mood, the Leitmotif key was the Margarita, either dissected in gauze blouses, or cut into elegant puppy coats for men in this mixed collection. Certain boys who walk in the last in luxury self -complacency: perforated gray dove moccasins.

Playing with tissues in primary colors: from a blood orange bikini, to a chocolate brown zipper suit and a navy blue bra used by Veteran Supe Natasha Poly, part of a multigenerational foundry. Before suddenly entering Overdrive in the final with a quintet of upper cocktails in truly beautiful, translucent and bright layers.

Like the set, the soundtrack was “pixilada”, since Ace DJ Frédéric Sánchez tested the voices of Italian cinema: Anna Magnani, Marcello Mastroianni, Alouk Aimée and Alain Delon, synthesized in Electronic music projects of Scanner and Matthias Schubert. In addition to the feeling of achievement when Silvia brought her arch to a standing ovation.

On an intense day for the brand, Fendi also opened an inspiring seven -story Palazzo Fendi through Monte Napoleone. It has a special personal floor of personal order with a team of permanent artisans, capable of creating innumerable versions of Fendi bags in exotic skin or hyper distinctive hardware.

The new space via Monte Napoleone includes modern art as an enameled ceramic column of Anton Alvarez; Excellent relic of the exotic leather coats of the final shows of Karl Lagerfeld for the house or the epic Haute Silvia show in the old Roman forum. All the way to a monumental coat with accounts of nine feet high, sequins and metal called Soundsuit made for Nick Cave.

Together with three floors of the Langosteria restaurant, including a Japanese version and a ceiling bar. The whole place ended with multiple types of marble floors, which change from floor to floor, private living room.

“It is emotional and experimental, which is what people want today of great brands. And it represents our Italian heritage,” said CEO Fresh Ramon Ros, who was named in April.

Etro: United Fashion Flags

Movement and movement in Etro this season, in a collection inspired by flags, with clothes that fluttered and undulating with each step.

Presented inside a tent inside a military barracks in southern Milan, the show was promoted by a large live presentation of the Nina del Sud, a polynstrurators, actress, singer and songwriter and general gotona. The singer shouts and roaring like half a dozen percussionists touched Overinas and Bodhrats painted in images of angry snakes.

Using the key heritage of Etro, its notable fabrics, in a too black collection; The program marked the best exhibition of the designer Marco de Vincenzo for the house since he arrived three years ago.

Dozens of influential people, pop singers and even the strange buyer sat in the division between two black catwalks, all perched on Ottoman covered with Etur fabrics.

Starting with elegant hippie dresses with hyperhuses, completed with rocker with fringes or cowboy jackets; followed by color crochet tops and huge psychedelic harem pants, along with some striking jacquard redinges.

For the night, he showed transparent skirts with Rajasthan printing leotards, or deep lace dresses. Most of the models wore scarves, some giant pirate hats, as if it were a fabulous private party at a rock festival. Outside, he had been raining all day in Milan. Within the mood was smoking.

“Mix and combination without any fear. Broocked with fabrics and prints. Denim and embroidered suede. Impressions in covered gauze beds to become magic. Intarsia leather. Fabrics and soul!” Tinnzo excited, in a full backstage.

Piana Loro: Classic clothes with modern art

The star of Piana de Loro's presentation of this season turned out to be the stage: Palazzo Citterio, a newly open museum dedicated to the art of the twentieth century.

A little known collection in a municipal gallery, which has a significant works of legends such as Modigliani, Braque, Picasso and Umberto Boccioni, including a wonderful self -portrait of the latter with a easel and wrapped in a layer of Mohair and a Boyie. Cut like one in the head of a close winner in this mixed presentation.

Each mannequin wore a cap or hat, to a puritanous pipe in the black creamy blackmith coat of a lady.

New key ideas included a new remarkable silk tweed, giving that mixture of English Aristo and Old Money Italy that Loro piana consumers like.

In addition, one discovered an intriguing linen made with a powder finish to the threads that alter the way the light falls on the material. Seen in a salted caramel colored neck jacket, next, unexpectedly, a double suit with double chest of Miami Don Johnson. On the other hand, an Armani retrospective will open to Sunday.