Milan Fashion Week closes with Andreādamo, Avavav and Chiccomao

The final day of Milan Fashion Week highlighted the event’s renowned diversity and global reach, closing the week with three standout collections. Andreādamo offered summery, easy-to-wear designs, Avavav presented an athletic, energetic and unconventional show, while Chiccomao made a vibrant Milan debut and closed the day on an eclectic and energetic note.

After a one-year hiatus, Andrea Adamo returned to the catwalk with a collection that seamlessly blended sensuality and ease. The atmosphere backstage was charged with excitement as designer Andrea Adamo meticulously inspected the final details. Known for his inclusive, body-positive approach that often celebrates nudity, this season saw him take a different approach, playfully draping his models in a veil to accentuate their shapes in new and inventive ways. The standout feature of the collection was the trompe l’oeil designs, which created the illusion of subtly sketched naked bodies on form-fitting knitted dresses, tops and skirts.

“In the past, I turned lingerie into streetwear for everyday use. Now, it is the body itself, through these trompe-l'oeil, that dresses the woman. Ironically, she has never been more covered,” the designer commented with a knowing smile. His brand is currently distributed in approximately 30 retailers worldwide.

Knitwear remained the focal point of the collection, with delicate, ultra-thin garments designed to hug the body in a play of transparencies. Off-the-shoulder tops, figure-hugging stretch dresses, macramé co-ords and sinuous mesh fabrics woven from viscose and lurex created a shimmering, ethereal quality. A standout look was black fishnet trousers embellished with sparkling sequins, which embodied both the complexity and ease of the collection.

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Swirling and cascading fringes adorned many of the pieces, creating a sense of fluid movement throughout the collection. Crafted from embroidered fabrics, beads or crystals, these fringes lent an ethereal femininity to the garments. These overtly feminine details were toned down by a more muted, autumnal colour palette, with monochromatic looks in black, chocolate, beige, nude and white. Masculine elements such as oversized leather jackets and voluminous calf-length trousers reminiscent of joggers balanced the overall softness of the collection.

Unexpected bubble leather skirts and tops also made an appearance in this fresh and airy line, adding structured contrast to otherwise fluid silhouettes. Adamo’s penchant for contrasts and gender-blending was evident throughout. For example, a fine knit tank top was layered over a tailored suit jacket, cinched at the waist like a corset, creating a look that juxtaposed delicate femininity with sleek tailoring.

“Faster, higher, stronger” could well have been the unofficial motto of the Avavav show, which took place in an athletics stadium. Upon arrival, guests were given bibs with their seat numbers before settling onto the track, where they were greeted with energy drinks and vitamin bars. Capitalising on the excitement of the Olympic summer, the concept was a clever move by the Swedish brand, which also used the occasion to unveil a collaboration with Adidas.

Adidas’ iconic three stripes were present throughout the collection: on clothing, footwear and accessories, and even painted directly onto the models’ bodies to simulate sports jerseys, some of which were intentionally left unfinished. The signature stripes also appeared as three white cords that hung like fringes from a cap, obscuring the wearer’s face.

The Adidas logo was prominently featured on the sleeves and legs of sleek suits, crop tops in striking black and red, a puffer jacket and even a hooded jumpsuit that, paired with oversized sunglasses and leggings, gave models the look of deep-sea divers. In another standout piece, a classic sports jacket extended to the floor and transformed into a flowing dress that trailed behind the model.

Designer Beate Karlsson, who leads the brand creatively alongside partner Johanna Blom, is renowned for her playful, eye-catching accessories. Her designs this season included bags made from rows of sneakers, oversized three-fingered gloves and Avavav’s signature four-fingered rubber fins, now equipped with studs and Adidas’ iconic three stripes. Karlsson’s signature quirky touches were evident throughout the collection, such as a collarless banker’s jacket with a scalloped neckline and porthole-shaped slits worn over grey flannel trousers.

As the show began, a speaker announced a challenge: to beat the world record for the shortest sprint distance — just 80 meters. The models, dressed in outlandish sportswear, took to the runway with varying levels of enthusiasm. Some collapsed dramatically after just a few meters, gasping for breath, while others trotted calmly down the catwalk. One model seemed to barely move, while another walked calmly down the runway, completely glued to her phone. Some models, wrapped in bloody elastic bandages around their limbs or torsos, added a macabre touch, using the bandages as socks, strapless dresses or even wedding dresses.

While sending models down the runway isn’t entirely new — Milanese label Sunnei experimented with a similar concept in 2022, which saw models run 110 meters on asphalt, and Paris-based Aalto also staged a fast-paced catwalk along the Seine — Avavav’s performance on Sunday felt tamer than its previous boundary-pushing shows.

Chiccomao closed the day with an eclectic collection that combined a variety of styles, materials and eras. The dense collection brought together baroque-inspired pieces in brocade fabrics, bright textiles that looked like tapestries, medieval influences with crocheted hoods and ornate vests reminiscent of doublets, and romantic touches with cascades of lace, embroidery and trimmings. The Gothic influence was also evident, with black looks with skeleton prints or spine-shaped necklaces worn on the back.

Mao Baobao, who graduated from Italian fashion school Istituto Marangoni in 2013, founded her eponymous brand the same year with the aim of combining traditional Chinese craftsmanship with contemporary design.

Her diverse collection catered to a wide range of archetypes: from the bespectacled intellectual in a dark trench coat with bold red lapels, to the rebellious rocker dressed in biker boots, metal chains, leather gloves and a zip-up skirt, to the preppy student in knee-high socks, a black vest and a crisp white blouse. And of course, there was the vamp, swathed in opulent, lavishly embellished dresses. However, there was perhaps an overabundance of ideas, which made the collection feel a little overwhelming and difficult to navigate.