When New York fashion seems to be in the doldrums, there's always Michael Kors to come and whistle a jaunty Broadway tune.
“When the world is upside down, more than ever, my job is to make people feel safer,” the designer said during a preview, always a believer in the old saying that if you look good, you'll feel good.
A tireless city entertainer, the designer took over the former Barneys New York in Chelsea for his Tuesday afternoon show. “It's a story of New York reinvention,” he said of the former department store space, where he first sold his collection in 1985.
“It is empty now but will be converted into condominiums. Of course it is,” she smiled before remembering a little more. “I participated in an AIDS fundraiser on that staircase, where we all designed Levi's denim jackets to auction. Madonna was at the show. Fran Lebowitz modeled. Mine was covered in gold leaf, which came off all over the model. But you know… anything for charity.
On the fall 2024 runway, Kors presented a greatest hits show of curvy tailoring; “Demonstrative outerwear,” as he called it, and bias-cut dresses and skirts inspired by his grandmother's 1930s wedding dress that he recently found in his late mother Joan's home.
It made him think of the 1930s as the origin of powerful glamor and tailoring, as seen on the big screen with Katharine Hepburn and Jean Harlow, through Hollywood history to Elizabeth Taylor in her role in “Cat on the Hill.” tin roof,” and René Russo wrapped in camel and cashmere from Kors' 1997 Celine collection in “The Thomas Crown Affair,” a film celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.
Kors is not alone. Power shoulders, sleeves and tailoring, diva coats, bias-cut dresses, slips and lingerie looks have been big trends in New York this week, seen on Carolina Herrera, Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst and more.
On the Kors runway, sculptural tailoring took the form of tweed jackets with defined waists and slit pencil skirts paired with high heels, as well as tougher-looking double-belted skorts paired with men's lace-up flats. . Stretch cashmere tank tops and hooded jumpsuits layered underneath brought the look into the present. Other concessions to the casual revolution? A gray sequin cashmere hooded dress, for example, and flared jeans that looked great with an ivory cashmere turtleneck, a black belted jacket, and thick sunglasses.
Outerwear was designed to make an entrance, from a lavender Mongolian sheepskin coat to a more subtly sophisticated charcoal gray cashmere coat with faux fur collar, part of a tonal look with a charcoal gray knee-length dress. bias cut ankles and black oxford. shoes. “It depends on the woman if it's day or night,” Kors said.
Also on the menu: slips, crushed satin and second-skin sequin dresses, plus a pretty black double-breasted coat with long sleeves with black embroidered flowers.
On the accessories front, Kors introduced a new top-handle bag called the “Manhatta,” appropriately enough, which is shaped like an “M” (also for Michael).
“How many celebrities have a name with an 'M?'” Kors said with stars in his eyes. “Everyone has to have that bag.”
