Fashions pass, but classics remain, rarely more so than at Michael Kors, whose latest impeccable and often superlative collection shown Tuesday was inspired by the noblest figure of all: his grandmother.
To be exact, Grandma Beatrice's satin wedding dress, which gave rise to a great series of satin dresses; precision cocktails; The most elegant of nightgowns and an all-round expression of self-assured New York glamour.
Michael discovered the wedding dress in the closet of his own mother, who passed away in 2023. It dates back to her wedding to grandfather Austin before World War II.
“My mom threw everything away, she only liked the new. But surprisingly, I found grandma's wedding dress still wrapped in a garment bag,” Kors marveled, in a pre-show preview.
The result was a strong and confident collection in a very shaken world. Half an hour after leaving the preview, around the corner, thousands of protesters marched down Fifth Avenue in protest of the Israel Defense Forces' latest attacks on Gaza.
Like today, the 1930s (when Grandma was married) was a time of political tensions. And Kors' references ranged from the 1930s icon Carole Lombard to more contemporary stars: Kate Moss or Carolyn Bessette.
The heart of the collection was bias-cut lingerie, coupled with strict tailoring. Although always with a modern touch, playing with Katharine Hepburn suits but updated with sculpted shapes and combined with cashmere hoodies.
“It's timeless, luxurious, refined and urban,” joked Michael, who showed fantastic bias-cut denim skirts, with shearling bomber jackets, worn over sleeveless, ribbed cashmere blouses. Note to fashion forecasters: Fur may be rare in New York, but there has never been so much shearling on American runways in nearly a decade.
Although New York is known as the Big Apple, a name coined by jazz musicians to celebrate the city's unique music scene, many soundtracks are mixed by French DJs. For example, this tremendous assembly that mixed Alicia Keys classics like 'This Girl is on Fire' and Fallin' with string versions of the same songs created by the Paris Philharmonic Orchestra.
Corporately, Kors is now part of America's largest luxury group, Tapestry. She also owns Versace, Coach, Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman. Kors is America's top sportswear designer and is no slouch when it comes to bags, like its new M-shaped tote, which when turned sideways becomes a K.
“That way, if you buy it, you'll have Michael and Kors in one bag,” he chuckled.
Most of the collection is done in black, the polished vision of urban life, a trend that is not limited to New York, but is now seen in Miami or Rio.
And while Versace might have greater couture recognition for many people, it's important not to forget that Michael's business is roughly six times the size of Donatella's.
Not bad for a young hopeful from Merrick, Long Island, who arrived in Manhattan in 1977 and dropped out of the Fashion Institute of Technology after just nine months.
Surely his grandmother would have been delighted.
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