“My collections have always started with my life informing my collections and not really with the fashion circus informing my life. I was thinking about that and it's probably for the best. I thought about how something starts and how it evolves; that’s why I wanted to photograph it here,” Marina Moscone said during a preview of her fall collection, pointing to lookbook images captured as behind-the-scenes moments in her Midtown showroom and workshop.
He adopted the same approach for his collection, revisiting and studying its pillars and silhouettes that have evolved and worked for the brand over time. Subtly recontextualized classics included iconic slim-fit Basque tailoring, in a new cape jacket silhouette; bias slips; pretty dresses and capes with twisted details; open backs, or subtle knit trims, made with a light, airy wool cotton or mid-weight wool instead of your usual plain satins.
“It's more tactile, more textural, less codified in terms of silhouette: there's softness in the hand, it's a little warmer, but the texture is still there but with less shine. I think it’s still open to any kind of context,” he said of the styles, which were also applied to his cozy double-faced wool and cashmere Cocoon coats and his new alpaca sherpa outerwear.
The line had no prints and focused on basic colors derived from its inspirations: white, black, navy blue and pale pink through the paintings of British painter Cecily Brown recently exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and “strange greens of ivy” (and architectural style). by the Italian architect Piero Portaluppi.
Beyond the twisted details, Moscone harnessed the spirit of Lynda Benglis's twisted organic sculptures to create the most exciting and playful textures in the collection, handcrafted flared dresses and matching turban and bandeau sets with long fringes made from tubes of Rolled silk organza embroidery. gauze. When shooting her in motion, she was almost like they were sea anemone (high fashion).
Moscone's approach to his quintessential aesthetic of clean and artsy with a “warmer,” tactile hand proved that marching to the beat of his own fashionable drum works well.
