Wonder. Fancy. Naive. Burst.
These four words could (partially) sum up Marc Jacbos' fabulous Friday night show in spring 2024. The event marked the brand's 40th anniversary, with longtime collaborators and friends in attendance, including Debby Harry, Sofia Coppola, Dakota Fanning, Chloë Sevigny and more, and continued to prove that Jacobs is still at the top of her game (and the fashion industry). .
Before his show began at the Park Avenue Armory, Jacobs’ “Wonder” show notes set the tone: “My love of the ordinary is a constant and meaningful lifelong affair. Through the inevitable lens of time, my glass remains filled with wonder and reflection. In examining the memorable and the mundane, we abstract and exaggerate with a disorienting familiarity in our desire to express something naïve and elegant.”
The large-scale sculpture of American artist Robert Therrien's 2006 work, “No Title (Folding Table and Chairs, Beige),” presented at the beginning of Jacobs' long runway, continued to send the message before models emerged in fashions. equally exaggerated (and even with bigger hairstyles). hair) with creativity, constructions and proportions at the haute couture level.
With 47 looks, Jacobs drove home the idea that “simple” clothing has the ability to be fantastic and impactful through impeccably tailored oversized silhouettes with nods to 1960s housewives; modern (and early 2000s) streetwear; Japanese constructions; male naval uniforms and childhood nostalgia for paper dolls.
They were all winners, but some of the highlights included stiff-knit sweaters with faux costume jewelry brooches, large plaid Bermuda shorts with folded outer seams and exaggerated leather Oxfords, '60s skirt suits, shift dresses and coats with flares combined with large leather bags. and quilted Mary Janes, and cropped dress-like jackets with big buttons and flared pannier pants. From XXL rounded sleeves to exaggerated bodices and hips, everything was getting bigger, but with the utmost restraint in clothing.
“The first thing I would wear: the oversized tracksuit,” actress Kathryn Newton, dressed in one of Jacobs' fall 2024 minis, told WWD after the show about her modern takes. They were high and flared with mile-high platforms, or leggy and micro-hemmed with early-2000s crystallized details of Haven by Marc Jacobs' signature two-headed teddy bear motif. Jacobs' spring show was notably the first time she showed the lower-priced streetwear line on the runway, and it performed well, especially through her naive candy-colored crewnecks that took over the runway just before her dazzling sequin and giant paillette. Embellished evening dresses closed the show.
“I felt like it was like a dollhouse. He reminded me of when I played with my Barbies…her jackets were very big with big buttons. “I feel like a doll,” Newton said.
But what a doll and what a fashion statement.
NEW YORK For more New York Fashion Week reviews, click here.
