In a quiet haute couture season in Paris, the city needed a great debut in the surprise factor, but did not really get one in the first Glenn Martens show for Maison Margiela Artisanal on Wednesday night.
Undoubtedly, there were some moments of real magic, in particular a highly distinctive avian action, from a sublime feathered appearance, to some bold and bright layers made in bird prints of the Renaissance style game.
The final night dresses in crepe and silk finished in small lace clouds showed a highly skilled curtain at work. To them, we add a Kicky inner fabric puree series, which an imagined founder Martin Margiela would have loved.
However, the decision to cover the head of each model with a mask, a skull or even Cooper Pot finally felt tired and repetitive. It also meant that many of the cast were forced to go through the show space. Poss-Show, many iPhone videos filmed by the editors seemed only, even if they were filmed in real time.
Organized in 104, a space of art and theater shows of the North of Paris where Martin Margiela presents, the set was a marble drill that had fallen into difficult times.
The martens opening appearance had a lot of blow: a series of dresses and dresses made in wrinkled plastic, without visible underwear. His accompanied masks were also wrinkled plastic.
A splendid conical dress followed a tone of degraded concrete, with a calave lining and cave made of silver accounts. Born as the conceptual brand par excellence, a series on dark suits or the painted jeans covered with muddy plastic seemed logical.
Then Glenn entered overwhelmed with two wet yellow gold and silver -blacked silver dresses, leotards and masks were excellently theatrical.
However, although clothes must have been complicated by making them clearly even more complicated to wear. Many models could barely move their legs. And the cast even doubted while marching through the various rooms and halls of the set.
Several rags of a Spanish guitar announced the beginning of this show, whose crescendo was the “disarmed” of pumpkins. But this show did not disarmed or enchanted.
Martens always had a difficult act to continue, since the final haute couture show of his predecessor was the most acclaimed fashionable parade of the decade. Martens has always been a very talented designer, and still seems like a good option for Margiela.
However, in total, this show looked like a pale shadow of that epic epic exhibition of Galliano.
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