Luca Magliano is undoubtedly the most watched Italian fashion talent of his generation: his languid, soulful and rustic clothes come with a captivatingly emotional undertone that the public has identified with until now.
Returning to Pitti Uomo as a guest designer with his fall show on Wednesday, the Bologna native, who had debuted here in 2018, felt the need to participate in the conversation about the classics of traditional tailoring and men's fashion that highlights the fair.
Emerging from a cavernous space filled with fog, characters dressed in gray, mud and sage green, or garments derived from tailoring, walked down the dangerously long staircase used as a landing strip at the Nelson Mandela Forum, a popular and common place, even “humble”. compared to the Renaissance palaces that fill the city, according to Magliano.
Ordinary life is what fascinates the designer most and allows him to use his intellectual fashion to make social commentary and take political stances on gender, acceptance and togetherness.
The emotional pull that depended on Magliano's ability to portray characters was reinforced with street casting and with ordinary people, many of them from the designer's inner circle, who became a powerful tableau vivant as they, tired, climbed the stairs to leave. during the finale.
Flowing trousers and blazers with high collars and jackets tied at the waist or cropped like boleros continued to chart Magliano's penchant for distressed '80s-inspired dressing, his deconstructed, almost leisurely style a highlight of the show. . They were offset by bulky outerwear, such as elongated bombers, jackets with poorly placed zippers and quilted duffle coats, as well as vintage-style sweater sets and knits.
To mark his loose take on traditional menswear, Magliano launched a “fun sabotage” of Borsalino hats, repurposing the signature felt hat to look like paper party hats, and even managed to forge a bond with Neapolitan tailor Kiton, which resulted in Magliano's first handmade garments. two black and white suits.
He characterized this last union as a union of different universes based on the common ground of ethical, high-quality and Made in Italy fashion.
The older boy in sequin pants and a fuzzy cat sweater and the mustachioed girl in leather pants, a studded belt, and an off-the-shoulder zip-up sweatshirt struck a chord more with their provocation than their clothing.
“He [collection creation] The process was much more intellectual than usual,” Magliano said backstage.
Perhaps that's why the powerful messages he normally conveys through fashion were somewhat diluted along the way.
