As Luisa Spagnoli's fall show unfolded, one could easily imagine a French girl heading out of town on a Friday night to head to Deauville, the chic resort town famous in the '50s.
Maybe you want to throw on a faux fur collar cape over a mini skirt and blouse and then slip into ribbed knit sets, the defining look of this collection, comprising a midi skirt and a cardigan with chunky gold buttons, all in an autumnal palette. burgundy, olive green and winter white.
Milanese designers have been into cozy, cozy styles this season, and the resort smells evoked by the designer apparently carried those sentiments into après-ski wear, loungewear (read rich knitwear), and bon genre. chic bon.
Dressed in colorful hats and Mary Jane heels with ribbed knit socks, models walked the runway to clichéd French songs, from Vanessa Paradis' “Joe le Taxi” to Francis Lai's “À 200 à l'heure.” They wore tonal looks that included knit jumpsuits held together at the back by criss-cross logo straps, resembling vintage ski suits; knit tulip dresses; Macramé and sequin-speckled variations of the knit ensemble, as well as snakeskin-print skirt suits and flared pants worn under trench coats.
The show would have benefited from a tighter, less repetitive edition, but the saccharine atmosphere the collection evoked was ultimately appealing.
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