Published
November 17, 2024
Los Angeles Fashion Week (LAFW) is over. Held at the W Hollywood Hotel, the “still under construction” edition featured six fashion shows and a series of presentations, exhibitions, talks and performances that attracted audiences of all generations.
After a first day marked by the West Coast debut of The Blue Jacket Show and the Rio World brand runway show, the second day began with a very Hollywood show by the BruceGlen brand founded by twins Bruce and Glen Proctor.
Titled 'Runaway Out of the Blue', the collection was unveiled after a gospel show featuring singer Jekalyn Carr and her gospel choir, who burned down the hall of the W Hollywood Hotel. A nod to the passion of the two designers, they proclaimed The Fashion Preachers, who, in addition to fashion, preach the word of Christ at certain events. The gospel number was not enough, so before the endless brand parade a contortionist act followed to the music of Daydream in blue.
Descending the long staircase of the W Hotel, the silhouettes showed a mosaic of fluorescent colors and graphic effects on shirts, shorts and satin ensembles. This was followed by a series of long evening dresses with beetles, olives, gummies, lollipops and other painterly effects on a blue background. In short, a happy, often delirious fashion, presented in a show format very much in tune with Hollywood and Los Angeles.
Most eagerly awaited, the Ed Hardy show was the highlight of LAFW. The show, held on the hotel's rooftop, attracted the largest number of guests. An intergenerational audience with dozens of fans wearing hats, t-shirts and dresses with the famous Don Ed Hardy tattoos, loyal to the brand for twenty years, teenagers who discover the brand and even couples who bring their babies to the event.
Now in the hands of the Iconix Brand Management group, which operates brands such as Jay Z's Rocawear, ZooYork, Joe Boxer and Candies, and after having been directed by Frenchman Christian Audigier, the Ed Hardy brand arrived in Los Angeles to celebrate its 20th anniversary. .
Kevin Christiana, the brand's creative director since 2009, ensured the brand's survival by introducing the brand's most successful luxury collection, By Appointment Only. Christiana, who participated in Project Runway in 2007, became famous for her numerous collaborations with rock and pop artists. In particular, he created artist Adam Levine's clothing brand, was design director of the Andrew Charles brand and launched his own brand.
“In 2019 I was the creative director of Adam Levine's clothing brand and made my clothes at Revise Clothing,” Christiana said.
“One of the managers at Revise Clothing called me one day and told me about the project with Ed Hardy and the launch of the By Appointment Only line, a luxury collection that would celebrate the iconic work of legendary tattoo artist Don Ed Hardy. With my Con experience in rock fashion, I accepted and the collection began to grow, attracting celebrities such as Gigi Hadid. In the last two years, the brand has enjoyed real success and we are delighted to present it here in the city of its roots.
Choosing the youngest and sexiest models in Los Angeles, Christiana launched her first silhouettes to the rhythm of the guitar and the music of Depeche Mode. An intense cadence saw the girls debut faux leather pants, paired with ultra-sexy tops embroidered with Don Ed Hardy tattoos and chain accessories.
This was followed by crops for girls and boys with a playful punk touch, a wide collection of tank tops and caps covered with tattoos of lions and hearts, ultra-mini denim miniskirts paired with traditional western boots, fitted leopard evening dresses to wear . with ankle boots and fishnet stockings, and others with a pair of long leather gloves. In short, a collection with a strong rock and tattoo identity, perfectly adapted to pay tribute to the work of Don Ed Hardy.
Tattoo artist Don Ed Hardy, who now suffers from Alzheimer's, has long been involved in the development of the brand. Originally from San Francisco, he opened Tatoo City in 1977, a cult tattoo studio that closed its doors three months ago.
“Naturally, I met Don Ed Hardy several times,” Christiana added. “His son even tattooed one of his latest designs on my arm a few weeks ago. Since the beginning of my involvement, I have done everything I can to celebrate his art, which guides all the collections. This will continue in the future.”
While the shows Private Policy and Theophilio didn't make much of an impression, this latest edition was notable in other ways. Firstly, for its commitment to connected brands, with the presentation of Tribute Brand, a physical and digital brand. And for established brands that still lack visibility, such as Head of State, presented in exhibition format throughout fashion week, and House of Aama, which hosted a cocktail afternoon on the final day in collaboration with Amoeba Music, the Hollywood cult music store.
Launched in 2017, the label created by mother-daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka, unveiled their latest collection titled 'Sun Records' there. A song not related to Memphis and Elvis but dedicated to Caribbean roots, Los Angeles jazz music and Akua's father, avant-garde jazz musician Jamaiel Shabaka. After its long history in New York, the brand moved to Los Angeles two years ago and has manufactured its clothes in factories in Los Angeles since then. Distributed by Saks Fifth Avenue, Moda Operandi and Nordstrom, House of Aama made its debut in Free People stores this year.
Otis College of Art and Design, a partner with LAFW since last year, also revealed the creations of its best students. The older ones were also delighted with the screening of 'The Times of Bill Cunningham', a film dedicated to the American street photographer. Narrated by actress Sarah Jessica Parker and presented by producer Mark Bozek, the 2018 documentary reveals the portrait of a charismatic photographer, who started as a milliner in the early 1950s in New York and became a “fashion historian,” as He defined himself, thanks to his photos of streets and celebrities.
Held this year between November 13 and 15, a time when buyers are rarely present, the format of Los Angeles Fashion Week may still evolve next season.
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