Lightness at Giambattista Valli and Alexis Mabille, shredded fashion at Viktor & Rolf

The Haute Couture Week dedicated to the Spring/Summer 2024 collections, which ends on Thursday, featured the most sophisticated and ethereal creations, such as those by Giambattista Valli, who was inspired by flowers, and Alexis Mabille, who played with makeup palette, as well as more unusual and inventive looks, such as Viktor & Rolf's cleverly frayed dresses.

A menacing sound of scissors echoed in the darkness, when suddenly a blinding light illuminated the room. The first model took to the catwalk, dressed in a regal black taffeta trench coat, followed by the haunting noise of the soundtrack. The first victim of this “horror movie” was not long in coming: the next model was wearing the same coat, this time torn with scissors. Large holes reveal the light beige lining, forming cow-like patches. A third model appeared wearing the same garment, this time shortened in the front.

Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren had the great pleasure of cutting the piece to create four variants of a single garment, playing with the contrast between the black looks and the flesh-colored linings: suits and corsets. As in a painting, the different silhouettes follow one another on an immaculate white background, revealing the skill of the duo, who cuts, cuts, rips and tears, then recomposes and sculpts lacerated costumes or even constructs new ones from spinning shreds of fabric. . , both modern and surreal.

The classic little black long-sleeved dress was transformed into a strapless minidress. The moiré silk ruffled evening dress was split in two, revealing a sheer flesh-colored jumpsuit, for a nude effect on the entire left side of the body. In another version, it was shortened and the ruffles were used to make a cape with oversized shoulders. Stripped to the top and bottom, a strict pantsuit transformed into a sexy bustier, while a sweeping tulle dress split wide open.

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Giambattista Valli also gave a lesson in haute couture. But instead of proceeding by elimination like Viktor and Rolf, he slowly perfected his sets. The Italian designer started from the classic Stockman, the haute couture bustier used by couturiers to create and adjust their garments, embodied on the catwalk by a simple silk velvet bodysuit, which he embellished as he progressed. The neckline of this first model was adorned with a garland of white roses.

The same white roses bloomed on the bodice of a long black taffeta dress, at the waist of a pink chiffon skirt, and on the shoulders of a white dress. Flowers were omnipresent in this N°26 collection, whether through the delicate palette of different shades of pink, wisteria, lilac and hyacinth blue, or through the numerous floral prints. But also in the sumptuous headdresses made with fresh roses that cascade over the hair.

Inspired by the beauty of nature, Giambattista Valli seemed to make his creations flourish through airy volumes of crystal-encrusted tulle, puffed sleeves and silk crepe feathers used to make a long coat. Dresses with whalebone or crinolines looked like flowers in full bloom, spreading to the sides and back with their cascade of airy fabrics. A shift dress with a wide-necked bodice and a faded sequined floral print was reminiscent of Claude Monet's Water Lilies.

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Alexis Mabille also opts for lightness, making simplicity the essential element of elegance in an intimate wardrobe. The outfits, sober and simple, were embellished here and there with precious but discreet details, such as Lyon lace, sometimes embroidered with crystals, which appeared in several models, such as the bottom of the pants of a white satin tuxedo suit. or shoulders. and sleeves of a minimalist shirt dress in silk faille.

For this collection, titled Mirror, Mirror, the French couturier has chosen the theme of cosmetics, playing with a palette of delicate and powdery tones, up to a twilight orange gradient, inspired by the nuances of different lipsticks on a long dress. and draping. .

Skin color, in particular, is present in several boudoir-inspired models. Like this sequin-covered jumpsuit, this sparkly Chantilly lace corset paired with a mother-of-pearl embroidered bolero, or these tight-fitting satin knit tubes embroidered with a big red mouth or eye. Still in the boudoir spirit was a sensual silk crepe negligee adorned with golden ostrich feathers.