Paris Couture will always be a contrast study, never again than his last day, when Rami al Ali Ali, the Germanier of Switzerland and Jordan Roth in New York presented very different visions of fashion and art.
Rami al Ali: Renaissance of Damascus
At the risk of sounding funny, one of the happy by -products of the end of the tragic and horrible Syrian civil war is that their good citizens can finally enrich their own culture and creativity again.
Case in question, Rami al Ali, the couturier born in Syria and based in Dubai, who presented a fresh and female collection that used techniques from his own native country with love and echoed the unique architecture of Damascus.
“Now, after almost 15 years, we can start focusing on our inheritance and skills, and breathing again,” said Rami, whose title for this autumn/winter 2026 collection was “Guardians of Light.”
A moderator clearly in command of his workshop, Rami sent some beautifully finished silkless silosy dresses that evoked the famous Al-Azm Palace with their geometric facades of the Ottoman era composed of limestone, sandstone, basalt and marble contrasting.
While tulip manga dresses with curves removed the arches of the legendary caravanserai khan of Damascus. And one felt a sensation of the dense floral style and script of Islamic art within the great museum of the capital city, Jami 'Al-Darwishiyya, when witnessing a splendid semi-surrounding spring dress in Tulle finished with motifs of sequins that shone like the blue tiles of Iznik.
These historical spaces, once alive with calligraphs, carpenters, metal artisans and weavers, echo once again, reinterpreted through modern haute couture, Rami explained in the notes of their programs.
Its objective: to raise crafts beyond the technique in cultural memory, working together with the Syrian Craft Council, to ensure that each piece entails a threading to the inheritance of Syria, updated for today.
Composed in the tones of Golden Dome, Alabaster, Viridian and Lapis, the collection received strong applause when Rami approached the roof space of Tokyo.
An elegant fashion statement, and an important reminder for those of us who have had the privilege of having visited Damascus, the oldest capital city in the world, blessed with a unique set of classical art and architecture and truly hospitable citizens and citizens.
Germanier: Recycle and roll
Kevin Germanier is a Swiss artist who was born in the town of Granges, just a thousand people in the Alps, whose mania for playful experimentation and complete recycling have made him a cult figure in fashion. His budget is modest, his very rich ingenuity.
For his second haute couture show, and the last of the four -day season of Paris, Kevin, in any case, was even crazier than ever with his mélange of polka polka dots, snake skin, painted leopard, stripes, all merged into bold silhouettes in psychedelic color.
Titled “Les joeuses” or “The Players”, the collection was certainly very playful, and supported by two figures stopped outside, dressed as the new version of the Teletubbies of Salvador Dali.
Above all, Kevin is a great image manufacturer, from its silver sequin surfer with dragon boots and a miniskirt made of bright mini balls, to its jacket of accounts with coral tones with sunflower drills, the show opened with great energy.
Organized within the IRCAM, the Experimental Music Center, the cast walked around a huge central point made of dozens of iridescent meters of meters throughout the meter. This set design will be completely recycled next season in Lentejuelas, said the modern and admirable Couturier.
Before the mound, he marched models with lush extravagant balloons dresses, or sculptural raffia dresses of intense colors with huge trains, made in collaboration with the Brazilian artist Gustavo Silviors. The wildest looked like Carmen Miranda in the acid.
Crushing recycled leather, previously used for Eurovision, reworked and stressed by crystals at a level of haute couture; recycled Japanese paper; Thousands of accounts and pearls.
The models really do not use further collections, they inhabit them. Given his amazing imagination, an intelligent producer should really hire Kevin Germanier to disguise an important feature film; That way, millions of people can enjoy this young man's talent. And not only the 400 people in this program.
“We are living in heavy times, politically, socially and economically. I think my role is to bring light, that is what drives my work, and this collection is a direct answer to that. I wanted joy on the catwalk,” Kevin Germanier insisted. He achieved exactly his desire.
Jordan Roth: Son & Lumière for a Nike in New York
Jordan Roth is a Broadway producer and rich son of a very rich property tycoon, Steven Roth. Roth Junior has been an outstanding VIP buyer in Couture for many years. No show of Balenciaga or Schiaparelli is complete without an appearance of Jordan in a very dramatic feminine aspect.
This season, instead of being a mere front -row accessory, Roth decided to organize his own performance art work, and when he was very accommodated, he hired Cour Marly inside the Louvre for the event on Thursday night.
Indeed, it was the end of the Paris season, attended by dozens of editors, arthchos and designers like Thom Browne and Michele Lamy.
The screen occurred in three acts. First, a group of young men and women in the type of attire of the Knights of the Eduardian Knights would use for a scientific conference, although in Ecru, he marched around an elegant white wrinkled dress with amazement. Before, an even wider Roth, in the disbelief studied, finally dressed inside the dress, apparently inspired by a dress of the Empress of John Galliano. A one -minute operation that lasted a good ten.
Then, a slow mentality march beyond the sculpture of the epic athlete Milo de Crotone and the famous Equestrian Stone Statues taken from Chateau Marly, and placed under the Giant Glass roof of IM PEI. Where Roth, in a chignon, makeup and three -inch nails, then lived his fantasy as the goddess Nike, or contemporary winner of Samothrace. Pushing on the air, wings 15 meters long, decorated on a light screen with several feathers. The original is probably the statue of the most visited museum in the world. Some 400 people presented the first of three performances.
With the soundtrack pumping the exuberant orchestral sounds, Jordan, 49, entered a huge sheath dress and ascended to the heavens, the wavy fabric in the form of a pyramid. The ancient Romans once built Cestius a pyramid in gratitude for organizing public parties and banquets. Jordan managed to simply be born rich.
Taking us to the climax, where a light projection reproduced the pyramid of PEI's outer glass tears and several works of art of Ruben and Mantegna in the dress, the largest in a high sewing season in Paris.
Titled “Radical acts of relentless beauty”, this show was thematic around the Museum's current novel show, “Louvre Couture”, where great fashion works are placed in addition to important decoration and art works.
Was this a mini fashion moment, or a burden of self -complacency of Twaddle by the biggest commercial owner of New York, and an occasional partner of Donald Trump? Judging by the modest applause in the end, the opinion was divided. But one thing is safe, Paris will always love an American with artistic pretensions and Chutzpah.
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