Khaite: intoxicating expressionism

The setting of Khaite's last show was as dark as that of GW Pabst or a Carl Meyer film; Two jet black hallways, where the huge walkway seemed to be made of black ice.

The mood was intoxicatingly expressionist throughout, with models in austere Stasi-chic leather spy coats; the key leitmotif of this fall 2024 collection from the creative director and founder of Khaite, Catherine Holstein.

Undoubtedly the most innovative designer in New York today, her last collection was also her most emotional, with sharply sculpted coats, jackets and dresses. Almost as if her fabric had been thrown over the models, then dimpled and she had been crumpled into shape.

Given the events occurring in the world at large – from Ukraine to Gaza – it should come as no surprise to witness the resurgence of expressionism in fashion. This artistic movement, which emphasizes personal feelings and experiences, enhances forms and distorts reality to express darker moods.

Like this show, where the cast came out of the darkness, backed by a somber rock soundtrack that included Joy Division's most melancholy song, 'She's Lost Control'.

Exactly the opposite of Holstein, who seems incredibly focused as a designer. Showcasing molded silk gazar tops with unexpected darts; coats of exaggerated proportions; and billowing cocoon coats. All with a great sense of authority and power.

“It was about the way we draped fabrics over the body. Have very sculptural moments, but also let them almost build on their own. And don't try to get too much out of them. “This all happened almost by accident, like an exploration,” Holstein explained in a stream-of-consciousness conversational style backstage.

Before greeting Naomi Watts, who explained: “I would like to introduce you to my daughter,” introducing Kai Schreiber.

Holsten's front row attested to how popular Khaite has become as a brand. Featuring the likes of Sofia Richie Grainge, Alexa Chung, Patina Miller and Rebecca Dayan, the show took place at Pier 61 on the Hudson River.

Everything to admire this impressive collection worn with evident pride by the cast. The model's hair tied back, her pale makeup, her lipstick: today's Sally Bowles in lower Manhattan.