Published
February 12, 2025
As the initiatives are facing setback during the Trump 2.0 era, any brand or company that may have benefited from them and prevails is a sign of hope. Women are among the many minorities that could use that additional support; Therefore, recognizing your efforts is in order. Two brands led by women, Kallmeyer and Kate Barton, ended with NYFW with an inspiring note.
Kallmeyer
“The Kallmeyer woman does not demand attention; she introduces herself,” said Daniela Kallmeyer, speaking with fashionnetwork.com Backstage Pre-show at the Bortolami gallery in Tribeca. Judging by the growing impulse of the brand since its foundation in 2012, many women are eager to meet her.
The New York season was nothing if it is not a simple and easy to digest clothes made of rich fabrics, rooted in the tailoring with a female side (to the ingenuity, Veronica Leoni in Calvin Klein, Frances Howie in Forme, Brandon Maxwell and TWP are subscribed in one way or another). He has been in the center of who Kallmeyer is from day one.
“The Kallmeyer is like all women; this collection is where you see the breadth of this. We have been developing more gestural and gestural silhouettes,” he explained.
For that, she focused on a word for the season: “Sublime” (the sample notes included this definition: 'high, great or exalted in thought, expression or way. B.: Of a spiritual, intellectual or moral value Outstanding.
“You will see the word expressed in the sound made by the program, the sensation and walk of the models. The world is full of chaos, and wanted to create a time when we could reduce speed and focus on the ship because we still want Honor art, “he continued.
The scarce space of the art gallery with transparent panels hanging from the ceiling prepared the stage so that the pianist Marta Sánchez put the show in live music, creating the serene atmosphere that helped in the soft atmosphere expressed by clothes.
For custom day styles, The mood expressed Through pieces such as a freely draped and buttoned slightly crooked sleeve jacket, combined with wide -legged pants. A brown cotton poplin shirt, unbuttoned at the waist, was designed with relaxed pants and a gentle belt belt.
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Another look featured a square houja chest check jacket, buttoned only on the necklace, with a coordinating chal hanging on a shoulder. A moment of high chal arrived with tissue leather strip, sweeping the clavicle and adding an attitude of louche to a black suit.
The designer further developed the most loose and curtain mood with some occasion pieces. A high -ranking skirt that covered the leg like a lily quiet upside down was romantic versus vulgar, a cascade draped neck It was presented In several blouses, and a long dull bias dress discovered a shoulder without being too much asymmetric. Two large pieces of outer clothing, a bathtub coat with belt and one elegant Leather trench spent By actress Sarita Choudhury, she fits the retail presentation button.
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Aggregate details such as marginal leather and moccasins covers made to measure by the Calçado Penha Portuguese footwear (Apiccaps) and FiamettaAn ethical brand of fine jewelry and ethical jewelry, added, added subtle bling.
“There is In fact Negrita pieces that are strong and know who they are but also have a kindness and softness for them, “Kallmeyer encouraged, and added:” My family's matriarchs inspired the way I think about dressing, who I am in the world and how I enter The room. I wanted the body to be the canvas of the clothes; You, as a user, is the inspiration for the pieces; The pieces do not tell you who it is, just a form of more yourself. “
Kate Barton
The last NYFW showed several new approaches, one of them Being that a track is not the only way to present a collection. Like several young designers, Kate Barton turned away from the track this season to organize the press one in an exhibition room. Instead of assigning precious funds to a large -scale show, Barton enlisted friends like Winnie Harlow, Dee Hilfiger, the WNBA player Kysre Gondrezick and Ballerina Violetta Komyshan to star in his autumn campaign, highlighting his practicality. This approach It was also seen In Jonathan Cohen, could it be an emerging marketing trend?
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This I was on exhibition like Barton, whose firms include a patented sculpture technique that helped create its details of signature “peto”, drape garments using a sewing for less waste and fabrics joined with liquid shine, the press walked through its new Collection, which aims to show its versatility.
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“For autumn, I wanted to bring great ideas in a more accessible way, such as the things I want to use every day but I still feel unique and interesting,” Barton explained. While his spring show was the past fall was sometimes diverted and biased towards a younger and more experimental crowd, Fall offered everyday articles such as a gray puppy sweater with a 'gathered' detail firm, a tailored shirt to measure Cotton with the same technique and a riff in a classic striped suit with cannon and leg effects. Jersey's dressing was also added To the mixture.
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That didn't mean Barton abandoned her. To add to her repertoire of liquid effect fabric, she aggregate The elements of sequins that, as seen in Hilfiger, are easily elements from day to night. The dresses inspired by Robe-à-L'anglaise took one of Barton's ideas last season and promoted them with a more demonstrative effect.
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Giving his client portable articles did not mean that the ideas more vanguard be skipped; A patched leather motorcycle presented its silver dagger details, now made with united leather. Another look used the bright metallic material in a low flag and a miniskirt flirtatious appearance that appeared in a wind whipped.
At all times they were simple fabrics with heat transfer designs Trompe l'Oeil that date back to other details of the collection, such as the motorcycle jacket. It is an intelligent movement for more entry level articles in the advanced contemporary collection. Some pieces will be available online such as the Barton collection debuted at Amazon Fashion. It is an intelligent link for a young designer who needs financing, the Goldfish agreement, since it could help foster purchases of the new online giant partners, Neiman Marcus and Saks.
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