June Men's Week welcomes Dunhill and Martine Rose

Milan Fashion Week is shaping up to be an event of British influence. This season, the capital of Lombardy faces two big London regulars. For the first time in its men's calendar, it features the presence of the Anglo-Jamaican designer Martine Rose, considered one of the most interesting developments in men's fashion, and Dunhill, the historic British house of the luxury group Richemont, whose creative director Simon Holloway will present his second collection in Milan. Both will be presented on Sunday, June 16, together with another renowned British label, JW Anderson.

For the rest, Men's Fashion Week dedicated to the Spring-Summer 2025 collections, which will be held in Milan from June 14 to 18, has announced a program in line with that of its last edition. In total, there will be 84 shows, presentations and special events, up from 72 in January. “A record for many years,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber (CNMI), presenting the program at a press conference Wednesday in Milan, promising “a very good Fashion Week.”

Looking closer, the schedule includes slightly fewer shows than the winter session, with 20 physical shows (up from 22 last season), including a Giorgio Armani double show. Additionally, four digital shows, including the first from Chinese label Valleyouth, will air on the final morning of Tuesday, June 18, before moving to Paris.

This June the Milan catwalks will lose six names. Starting with Stone Island, which organized a performance event in January to present its new manifesto and will not return to the calendar this season. The Italian-Chinese brand Pronounce, a regular on the London catwalks and which last season showed for the first time in Milan, this time chose a presentation format.

Not included in the fashion show calendar are Federico Cina, one of the representatives of the new generation of Italian designers who has been walking on the Milan catwalks for four years, nor Andersson Bell, DoHun Kim's South Korean brand, which is leaving Milan. Fashion Week after two seasons. Also missing are K-Way, which usually appears during the winter season, and Philipp Plein.

These departures are offset by the arrival of Martine Rose and Dunhill, as well as two important returns. Moschino returns to men's fashion, under the new creative direction of Adrian Appiolaza. The flagship house of the Aeffe Group will open the Week on Friday, June 14 with the presentation of its women's pre-collection for spring 2025. And Magliano, the brand of Luca Magliono, who moved to Florence last winter, will be the guest of honor Pitti Uomo.

The Milanese line-up is completed, of course, with the biggest names in Italian fashion, from Giorgio Armani to Prada, without forgetting Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Dsquared2 and Zegna, who will parade alongside other established names such as Neil Barrett. But also MSGM. Its founder and designer Massimo Giorgetti will mark one of the highlights of this Fashion Week with an anniversary show to celebrate the 15th anniversary of his brand, presenting along with the men's looks the women's pre-collection for spring 2025.

There is also a rich program of presentations (44 compared to 32 in January, plus eight by appointment), with no less than eight new names: the Georgian label David Koma, another regular on the London catwalks, “who chose Milan to launch its men's line collection,” stressed Carlo Capasa. But also Ascend Beyond, Cortigiani, Des_Phemmes, Diomene, Gams Note, GR10K and the Danish designer Henrik Vibskov.

The latter, which is also present at Pitti within the framework of the Scandinavian Manifesto project, participates in a new initiative launched this season by Camera della Moda, CIFF Showrooms Milan in collaboration with the Danish International Fashion Fair in Copenhagen. The objective is to showcase Danish design through six other brands (Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Sobre 1976, Aiayu, Adnym, Isnurh and Les Deux), whose collections will be unveiled in an exclusive space in the central Palazzo Giureconsulti, which serves as the Center of Fashion Week.

Carlo Capasa, optimistic about the new men's edition, points out the difficulties that the sector has faced at the beginning of the year, which “is still affected by the slowdown at the end of 2023, with a drop in sales of 3% compared to January.” February 2023. The textile, clothing, leather goods and accessories sectors saw their sales fall by 5%, while the cosmetics, jewelry and eyewear sectors increased by 12% Italian fashion exports increased slightly, while the. sales in the domestic market are falling sharply,” explains the president of the Camera della Moda, who attributes this negative situation above all to “the great crisis of electronic commerce platforms, which has dragged down many merchants who trusted them. “.

Despite the crisis, Carlo Capasa promises a festive Fashion Week with numerous parallel events. Starting with the exhibition and evening organized by Canali to celebrate his 90th birthday. Not forgetting the after-parties, including one by JW Anderson, and a big party organized by the CNMI to close the week on Monday, June 17.