Jonathan Anderson pulls Loewe out of Paris Fashion Week, Valentino returns to haute couture (#1686642)

Jonathan Anderson has abandoned another runway season, this time with Loewe; as Valentino returns to Paris Haute Couture; and Willy Chavarria, SS Daley and 3.Paradis debut in men's fashion, according to the new official calendar.

In a big surprise, Loewe will not present a show in January in Paris, according to the official catwalk calendar published Monday by the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, French fashion's governing body.

Under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, Loewe has been one of the most popular shows in Paris for both menswear and womenswear, featuring the hottest variety of fresh stars in the front row. But this decision makes Anderson three shows in three different fashion capitals in one week.

The news from Paris came just hours after London Fashion Week revealed that Anderson's signature label, JW Anderson, would not be showing at the UK season in February. And a week after Anderson pulled his menswear show from the January schedule in Milan, where he has shown for several years.

Remembering Ian Fleming's immortal phrase for James Bond in Goldfinger: “Once is a chance. The double is a coincidence. Three times it is enemy action.”

With the fashion industry in turmoil internationally and the business in a dramatic state of flux, many will see this triple whammy as heralding Anderson's possible departure for another fashion house. Whether within the giant luxury group LVMH, which boasts massive brands such as Dior or Louis Vuitton, or elsewhere, Gucci in Milan is still struggling to gain ground under designer Sabato De Sarno.

Neither Loewe nor JW Anderson responded to requests for comment.

That said, despite Loewe's absence, the Paris runway seasons are going remarkably well. As proof of the effervescence of the French capital, a total of 29 houses are officially accredited to present haute couture shows during the next season, from Monday, January 27 to Thursday, January 30. While 68 houses are registered in the Federation's men's fashion calendar, 38 with shows and 30 with presentations, from Tuesday, January 21 to Sunday, January 26.

One of the highlights will be the Valentino show, which marks Alessandro Michele's haute couture debut for the house. Valentino's last couture show was in January 2024, and it turned out to be Pierpaolo Piccioli's final collection for the Rome-based house.

Michele's first ready-to-wear collection for Valentino was a highly praised tour de force that referenced the house's glory days in the '70s, and took place during Valentino's ready-to-wear season. Paris in September.

Two other “guest houses” will also appear on the official calendar, Germanier, by the brilliant and cerebral Swiss designer Kevin Germanier, and Miss Sohee, a Korean star mentored by Dolce & Gabbana in Milan. According to the Federation, they will be the last two shows of the season.

Couture opens Monday morning with Schiaparelli, in a week that includes many legendary Paris houses: Christian Dior, Chanel and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Following Gaultier's policy of having a guest designer each season, this January it is Ludovic de Saint Sernin's turn.

In addition to Valentino, there are shows by the Italian gentlemen Giambattista Valli and Giorgio Armani with their Privé collection. Additionally, a highly international cast including Georges Hobeika, Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab from Lebanon; Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta from India; Peet Dullaert and Ronald van der Kemp from the Netherlands.

Literally, many other couturiers will stage shows and presentations outside the calendar, in particular Tamara Ralph, born in Australia and recently inaugurated her own house on the banks of the Seine.

In men's fashion, Louis Vuitton will be the key show at Tuesday's opening, marking the fourth at-bat for Pharrell Williams, the producer, singer and designer who will be named a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador on Tuesday night.

SS Daley and 3. Paradis lead a busy Wednesday also featuring Alexandre Mattiussi's Paul Smith and Ami. While Thursday will witness the runway debut of a new collection from the house of Issey Miyake, IM Men.

Willy Chavarría debuts on Thursday in Paris, between two LVMH brands, Dior Homme and Kenzo. And a busy weekend will include shows by Hed Mayner, Hermès, KidSuper, Sacai, Lanvin and Jacquemus, the latest after a four-year hiatus from men's fashion.

In addition, the Federation's special Sphere section for emerging designers will feature this season Bianca Saunders, Cachí, CREOLE, La Cage, Lagos Space Programme, Lazoschmidl, Les Fleurs Studio and Ouest Paris.

Let the shows and games begin.