Jil Sander, the Meiers take a long and slow ovation

If, as most people believe, the designers of Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier are about to be replaced, they have certainly left the most famous fashion label in Germany with a high note.

A bold mixture of clear tailoring, blunt effects, mixtures of unusual materials and Urban Chic was an admirable final collection in its mandate in Jil Sander, a house founded in Hamburg in 1973.

Organized at Black Funeral, with two narrow tracks under the walls cut in black .

That said, often dazzled clothes, from pink fragments dresses to silver pliss metal cocktails. The great idea of ​​the design duo was plastic skirt dresses, such as Techy Pacific Island Chic.

In a mixed show, the boys appeared in Eduardian and Blazers coats rooted with cock feathers and motorcycle leather suits in electric blue, while a series of coats for men and women had an ingenious degraded coloring, starting in black and fading in Bronze, then white on your high funnel necks.

Taking into account that Jil Sander was called “The Queen of Less”, she felt like a “more” far away, especially shoes: pickers and vines of winkle hyper-gross and with spikes. There was nothing minimal in them.

In truth, Jil Sander's house has had an erratic history since the founder left in 2004 after repeated clashes with the then owner Patrizio Bertelli of Prada. The property changed hands several times, even to a vulture background, before being acquired by OTB and its president, Renzo Rosso, the Italian multimillionaire founder of Diesel, in 2021.

However, for several seasons now, Renzo Rosso has openly expressed his desire to turn Jil Sander into an Italian Hermès with an advantage. This collection was far from that. In fact, if one could blame Luke and Lucie Meier for something, it was that the collection, with their sharp lines and exaggerated finishes, felt more aimed at critics than to customers.

Three weeks ago, Rosso called Serge Brunschwig in Fendi as the new CEO of Jil Sander, stressing that the change is on its way.

That said, the Meiers can leave Jil Sander with their heads up, even if they made a long and sad tour of the catwalk to some well -won applause. His seven -year mandate had several excellent collections that were among the half dozen fashion in certain seasons: it is not an easy task to achieve security.

For the future, the current favorite to replace them in Jil Sander is Daniel Lee de Burberry. Be attentive as the Carousel in which the high fashion has become another turn.