Jason Wu's sea-kissed, spunky and glamorous spring spirit has arrived on shore for fall.
The “Nocturne” collection seemed like a sister to her previous effort, with impressive craftsmanship and a luxurious approach to deconstruction. But it was also a nod to his personal evolution as a sportswear and eveningwear designer, with illustrator Arthur Rackham-style inspirations dating back to his fall 2009 collection.
“That series seemed like a fairy tale, which I love, but this one is more subversive. From 2009 to now, it is very interesting. I always say, 'everyone should be lucky to be in a box because' that means you're known for something. But at the same time we all need to evolve and I have evolved a lot. “I wanted to revisit a long-standing topic,” she said.
Their fall collection demonstrated this with an emphasis on rich textures, inside-out constructions, hand-drawn flora and fauna motifs, “deconstructed” luxury sportswear, and “glamour, glamour.”
The collection instantly set the mood with a long, draped gray knit dress with outside seam details—the look was an ode to Geoffrey Beene, one of two iconic American designers Wu referenced in her collection.
The references were both personal and purposeful for Wu, who backstage emphasized her steadfast enthusiasm for walking in New York and for American designers. “We need credit in New York because we make beautiful clothes here. We are not just commercial designers. I think American couture is a real thing,” he said.
Fall's architecturally draped corset dresses, her own Charles James moments, in versions of rust-hued crushed gold metal satin and muslin-hued spun silk cotton (with a bit of linen) certainly fit the bill. The same goes for the sensual hand-shredded fil coupe organza dresses that evoked healing bark.
In addition to “old school,” Wu also made rich collaborations with emerging “new school” designers, including luxe, wrap-around cashmere knits with Crush Collection and gold jewelry with Sauer (as well as footwear with Gianvito Rossi for the first time).
Wu said she spent three months developing fabrics, showing everything from woven grosgrain bustiers nestled between raw-edged suits and luxe quilted coats mixed with opera coats to delicate sheer origami tops with floral embroidery and midi dresses printed and layered organza.
All in all, it was a collection full of dark, moody beauty, one that certainly requires a close second look.
