Italy opens the season of male clothing shows with Pitti Uomo, Milan Fashion Week


Translated by

Nicola Mira

Published


June 13, 2025

Italy is about to obtain the season of male clothing shows on the way in the middle of a generalized uncertainty caused by the complex economic situation. On the agenda, two unmissable events: Pitti Uomo, scheduled from June 17 to 20 in Florence, and the men of Milan Fashion Week, from June 20 to 24. This season more than ever, these two events dedicated to spring/summer collections of 2026 depend on the main international names to energize their programs, with Issey Miyake and Paul Smith at the top of the bill.

Dolce & Gabbana (shown here, a look last winter), Prada and Armani will be the only Italian labels shown in Milan this season: World.dolcegabbana.com

The 108th edition of Pitti Uomo will exhibit almost 750 exhibitors, 43% of them outside Italy, compared to 770 in January 2025 and 790 in June 2024, as well as a large number of international events and initiatives. The show stars will include Tommy Hilfiger, returning to Florence after an absence of eight years with a new male clothing project, and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, the guest of honor.

Pitti Uomo is looking to generate fresh energy with no less than four guest designers, instead of two in January. The Italian designer Niccolò Pasqualetti, the South Korean label Post Archive (PAF) faction, and the children of disagreement, a Japanese label, will be shown next to Issey Miyake.

The new Korean code project will provide new attention to international design, established in association with the Corea Creative Content Agency; The presentations of the Scandinavian Manifesto Collective, in association with the Cepenhagen Cuff Commercial Fair; J Quality, a section dedicated to Japanese crafts; China Wave, which shows the best of contemporary Chinese male fashion selected by the elegant trade fair and the National Garment Association of China; and finally, a selection of Spanish labels promoted by ICEX. Not to mention the 25 French labels that they will exhibit, most of them backed by Promas and the French public body defi.

In its next summer session, Pitti Uomo will also focus on sport, simultaneously organizing Bechcle, the cycling industry event introduced for the first time in June 2024. The brands related to Great and Small cycling will exhibit in Bechcle, including Colnago, Passoni, Ashmei and Pas Normal Studios. BECYCLE will be part of the 'I So Out' section of the SOF FUT 'show in contemporary outdoor clothing and equipment.

Paul Smith will be shown in Milan this season
Paul Smith will be shown in Milan this season – © launchmetics/spotlight

The edition of this season of the men of Milan Fashion Week will be quite discreet, clearly feeling the impact of the geopolitical and economic global crisis. It Will Feature 81 Events, Including 44 Presentations, 17 Special Events and 15 Runway Shows, Plus Five Digital Shows That Will Be Streamed On The Week's Final Morning, On Tuesday, June 24. Only Three Among Italian Fashion's Leading Names Will Feature On The Milanese Calendar This Season: Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Prada, While Zegna Will Be Showing in Dubai, and Many Oher Labels Have Opted to present the Menswear Collections with Women's Clothing in September Fashion Week.

Some emerging labels that have left their mark on the Milanese fashion panorama in recent years will also give this edition a lady, such as Magliano, which is replacing its usual show with a film projection, Jordanluca, and Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor. However, Milan will trust four 'new' names to refresh the calendar, starting with the British seal Paul Smith, which renounces Paris this season to show in his Milanese exhibition room on June 21.

The other new entries in the Milan Male Care program are Setchu by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata, winner of the LVMH 2023 award, which will begin the procedures on Friday, June 20; Long Fiorucci Italian tag, in the midst of great relaunch; and Qasimi, the male clothing label of the Qasimi, originally from the EAU.

Two returns that are worth mentioning are those of Vivienne Westwood, which will organize a presentation, and Spanish designers Miguel Vieira and David Catalán, which is shown on Monday, June 23. On the same day he will end with the first Rune show, Emma Rowen Rowen, Rose with her Barroque-Chic seal, made in Ititly, Rowen Rose, which will release a line of wands on this occasion this time.

Before passing the cane to Paris, Milan's Fashion Week will be animated by some great parties, including those that celebrate the 30th anniversary of DSQUARED2 and the 40 of Jacob Cohen.

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