In Milan, three visions of fashion with Moschino, MM6 and Federico Cina

On the third day of women's ready-to-wear shows, the Milanese fashion scene showed all its creativity with an intense and eclectic programme. From the joyful and extravagant fashion of Moschino to the raw and rock looks of MM6 and the contemporary costumes of Federico Cina, spring-summer 2025 promises to be a hot one.

Towels, sheets, nightgowns, grandpa trousers, embroidered tablecloths, pillowcases… White linen is hanging on cables to dry in the large hangar that hosts Adrian Appiolaza's third show for Moschino. This is collection 02, as the first was collection 0. The Argentine designer continues his exploration of the world of the home, revisiting its codes with humour and lightness.

For next summer, he proposes several different families or communities, all of them with which to express the different facets of the brand. The creative director started with a simple white sheet which, wrapped in long dresses, was transformed into a blank canvas on which to sketch a landscape with Indian ink, a trompe l'oeil garment or even a child's drawing revealed on the back of a light coat.

In the blink of an eye, one of the mannequins was holding a bottle of bleach in its white-gloved hands, to erase everything if necessary. The irony was evident in this little black dress covered in pins. A true hymn to haute couture! Or in these two-in-one models, with black trousers and dresses in front and evening dresses hanging out behind.

There were also many other elements taken directly from the Moschino archives. For example, polka dots on dresses with ruffles or fringes, sometimes mixed with checked prints. There were also pearl necklaces that emphasized the structure of the garments, suits with slogans or black leather biker jackets that elongated into coats adorned with large fringes. The collection was packed with ideas that paid homage to founder Franco Moschino.

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MM6 rocked the crowd to a thunderous techno-hardcore soundtrack. Mannequins came out in hip-hop boots, jeans, vests, belts and sunglasses. The attitude was rock and roll, with jackets and vests and no shirts, but the overall look was more subtle than it seemed. The raw, rebellious spirit was present, most notably in a series of jeans that had been completely ripped and slashed with a cutter, in faded denim shirts with the sleeves torn off and in pieces of leather that had been cracked to give them a worn-in effect.

Everything was extremely refined and clean, the avant-garde flirted with the classic in silhouettes composed of rigorous beige trench coats, long sleeveless tuxedo jackets and tight little strapless dresses. A touch of glamour was added with sequined heels, gold belts, silver handbags and long necklaces.

Far from black, the quintessential symbol of rock, it is white that dominates, the emblematic white of Maison Margiela, which this season takes over its younger and more contemporary line, whether in blazers, satin dresses, jogging pants worn like pyjamas or faded or coated jeans, as well as leather jackets and trousers, covered in white paint. The paint even splashes onto cowboy boots and lace-up shoes, including the Dr. Martens, the result of a collaboration.

The house's codes were also evident in numerous experimental-inspired creations, such as this T-shirt made from a plastic bag or this dress with a square of plastic around the front, as if it were vacuum-packed. Sometimes, it's all in the details, like this opening in the collar of a jacket, through which you can let your hair fall down your back.

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After having walked the runway at Men's Fashion Week, Federico Cina has made the leap to the women's calendar this season. Launched in January, the “tortellino” bag, which reproduces the shape of a filled and folded pastry typical of his native Romagna, has been a hit with the female public, allowing the designer to enter several new multi-brand stores. He currently has around forty points of sale in Italy and Asia.

“I've been presenting women's looks for a few seasons now. The brand has been on the market for five years now and I think it's the right time to participate in Women's Week. You have to have a certain maturity to present yourself there,” says the designer, who started out with a masculine proposal without gender distinction. In fact, in this new collection, women are the protagonists, with numerous looks.

For next summer, Federico Cina has been inspired by the broom, a bright, warm yellow Mediterranean flower, which he sees as a metaphor for the current situation of young designers. “The broom is very resistant and brave, because it grows on volcanoes. But it can explode at any moment. I found affinities with my situation, because having an emerging brand today is very risky,” he says.

The designer plays with contrasts between yellow, in pale shades of light green and mustard, and volcanic grey-black. In his tailoring creations (trench coats, suits, midi skirts), he introduces details that bring movement and lightness, such as the long tubular fringes that emerge from the skirts and adhere to the trouser legs, or the wide pleats and panels on the skirts. He has also presented some sportier looks, the result of a collaboration with Umbro.