It's been almost a year since Peter Do started at Helmut Lang, and now showing his fourth collection (resort 2025) for the Fast Retailing-owned brand, his vision is crystallizing.
After establishing suits, shirts and utilitarian looks as part of the brand's DNA, this season it opted for softer, more versatile loungewear, including layer-dyed fleece sweatshirts, Helmut Lang's signature tank stretched into a dress column and cloud knit pieces with adjustable laces. tabs to raise or lower lengths. It was a good move, which made Helmut Lang less intimidating and rigid on the court.
“This falls in November/December, so I was thinking about what you're going to wear at that time in New York when it's so bipolar because you're either going upstate, you're going to relax, or you're at a party. So this is the answer,” Do said.
The new jeans come in a raised flocked velvet designed for gradation, or with a relaxed cocoon leg and elastic waist that is “easier to wear during Thanksgiving,” Do said. She also put her stamp on pajama attire with a shirt, pants, and pleated skirt set monogrammed “HL.”
Among pajamas, sweatshirts, and denim and leather tuxedo styles were a number of soft pieces, including a sleek white asymmetrical cloud knit tunic and pants, and a hand-embroidered, sequined, chunky-textured black sweater dress that Do teamed with Joan Didion's loose dress. elegant.
“I really lean towards the casual approach because I feel like that's how most people dress. You'll see more fabric development and innovations in terms of fabric being machine washable and things like that. For me, this easy-care Helmut is the new luxury,” said Do.
Even the dressiest looks had versatility for dressing down; a great looking black tail coat and a white tail shirt paired with jeans.
“Now conversations around the brand focus less on the concept and more on the clothes. So for me, the next few seasons are going to be about perfecting our signatures and making sure they are represented at every retail partner and every door that we have,” Do said. “It's going to take some time for people to understand that this is the chapter of Peter. These are the codes he created.”
