Huishan Zhang took a spicy turn this season, drawing on the rivalry between actresses Anna Magnani and Ingrid Bergman, and their competition for director Roberto Rossellini's affections.
“I built this wardrobe around the clash, the contrast between the two women: one a loud, sensual Italian and the other a Hollywood darling,” Zhang said.
It deflated volumes and downplayed the formality of past seasons, focusing instead on more restrained silhouettes that referenced the scorching heat of Sicily's summer and the old-school glamor of Hollywood, all in a palette that included feisty red, blood ox and silver gray.
Chunks of black tulle billowed on curvy satin dresses in champagne hues, while a tailored black suit came with a flared skirt and a sizzling cropped jacket that revealed a bare torso.
The sheer, bejeweled dresses added an extra touch of southern Italian glamour, especially when Zhang paired them with faux fur jackets or hip-length leather coats.
Old Hollywood shined in the form of more demure looks, including a long, slim belted coat and a silver-gray dress with an oversized bow that wrapped around her shoulders like a cloud.
Is Zhang's socialite client ready for all this drama? This sexy collection is a departure from the dresses, sweet suits and demure silhouettes of days gone by, and it will be interesting to see if the ladies in it side with Anna or Ingrid.
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