Homme Plissé Issey Miyake: waterproof chic


The great Issey Miyake may have left us two years ago, but his house is still in very good condition judging by the witty and fun show the brand presented in Paris on Thursday morning.

Issey Miyake SS25

Hyper-positive in mood and brightly layered, the collection was an excellent meeting of nomadic ideas of pleats, bold colors and waterproof elegance.

Staged in the courtyard of the 1930s Rational-style Mobilier National, the show opened with lots of ideas of beachy stripes, windowpane checks and colorful paintings. As good as the selection was, the mix never became a clash.

They were followed by a series of total monochrome looks in pleated technical fabrics. Pants, shorts, vests, vests and scarves, all lightly layered and made in peach, dusty lilac or ecru.

Constructed from huge fragments of fabric, the clothes wrapped around the cast, who clearly loved what they were wearing. Marching with self-confidence to a rousing soundtrack by Matthew Herbert.

Hoods, caps and hoods in many models under a Parisian sky that threatens and brings rain for months. The best ideas though were the rolling rain gear. As any visitor to Tokyo will attest, it rains a lot in the Land of the Rising Sun. One of the reasons Miyake is the best resource for fashion rainwear from any brand. Lime green, dark orange, faded turquoise – the color palette was beautiful.

A charming installation by Vincent de Belleval decorated the courtyard with dozens of white discs placed on two-meter poles, which swayed in unison according to the direction of the wind. All the better to contrast the wonderful waterproof elegance that capped this show.

Knowing Issey, I think the master designer would have been very happy.

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