Heritage and creativity at Roland Garros

Did Lacoste have to choose the Roland Garros stadium in Paris, the emblematic temple of French tennis, to stage its great return to the catwalks? In 2019, the French sportswear brand appeared on one of the secondary runways, but that was before it easily surpassed the €2 billion mark in revenue. This year, to present its Fall/Winter 2024 collection, the MF Brands brand opted for the famous Philippe Chatrier court. And I didn't have to worry about rain, because it is completely covered.

The show's soundtrack honored French tennis star René Lacoste, as guests settled into their seats closest to the court, which was completely covered with a huge clay-colored tarp. The actor Pierre Niney, new ambassador of the Lacoste brand, dressed in a black leather jacket over an ocher yellow polo shirt, black pleated pants and a Lacoste belt, sat next to Thierry Guibert, director of MF Brands, who was chatting with another former French tennis player. Boy, forget it. Around one hundred guests came to Roland Garros to witness Lacoste's return to the catwalks.

It was the first time that Pelagia Kolotouros, named creative director in early 2023 after previous stints at The North Face and Yeezy, had presented a collection in Paris. The show began with a bit of theater: a dozen young men in impeccable black suits lifted the enormous tarp off the ground, revealing an anomalous tennis court, whose white boundary lines spiraled to the top of a mound of four meters high. . Another team, armed with brooms and dressed in white and navy tracksuits, swept the curved dividing lines, preparing the field for the spectacle.

See catwalk

Referencing René Lacoste, Pelagia followed her own rules for her first Lacoste show, distancing herself from the brand's iconic (and highly profitable) polo shirt, which could only be seen under a sweater, coat or suit. Kolotouros, who was born in Queens, New York, opted again for a lot of layering, as he did for spring/summer 2024. The new collection was consistent with Lacoste's shift toward a more exclusive positioning, which began a few years ago. Kolotouros had fun mixing feminine and masculine silhouettes: Both the feminine and masculine models wore pleated tennis skirts over a pair of pants, either tone-on-tone in forest green or white over black pants. Pleated effects also appeared in leather accessories, which were numerous again this season.

Kolotouros designed several new tops and coats, including oversized down jackets worn over lightweight knit tops and mini shorts. Black leather jackets and generously proportioned ankle-length coats defined the silhouette. Three of these coats, in black, featured a large gold crocodile on the lower back. Under the coats, models wore leggings, jumpsuits, skirts and shorts, characterized by comfortable high-tech lines and silky, sophisticated materials.

The same soft, flowing fabrics were used for shirt dresses and jackets with a tennis-chic vibe, hinted at by black-and-white printed motifs that included a vintage photograph of René Lacoste on the court or a vintage tennis racket. Kolotouros also included a handful of performance elements in a nod to a more sporty vibe, one she's familiar with after her work at The North Face.

See catwalk

“It's good to be back and with a special focus on tailoring,” Guibert said after the show. The collection featured two tailored garments for next winter. A layered, unevenly pleated skirt-dress ensemble, shorter in the front and longer on the sides and back. And high-waisted flared trousers with pleats, which incorporate a belt with a gold or silver crocodile-shaped buckle. They were worn over thick shoes with lug soles and a colored plastic toe or over sneakers with platform soles.

The same model worn backstage by Lacoste deputy general manager Catherine Spindler, who was delighted to see Lacoste walk again in Paris. An event around which the brand was able to create a great stir, attracting numerous artists and celebrities from France and elsewhere. Kolotouros was in high demand after his first Lacoste show. “I really wanted to pay homage to the brand's 91-year heritage and also let our customers know how rich the brand's history is and its connection to tennis,” he said, while posing for photos with actor Adrien Brody and pop legend Grace. Jones.